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I have been struggling for some time with a clutch side crank seal on my 2007. Finally ive got it fixed. Ive read every thread on the internet 100 times in the process. I have about 50 hrs on it since a rebuild over the course of the last couple years and every 5 hrs or so the stupid clutch side crank seal would go out. Well long story short i ran a lot of seal through it trying all sorts of different things and what i found out is that sliding the counterbalance gear in place is a very intense maneuver and usually 99% of the problem when people rebuild these. In the pictures i have the manual for both the 04-05 which uses a ROLLER BEARING and the crank seal is supposed to face OUTSIDE or CLUTCH SIDE. That is not the case with the 06+ I promise and there are many dealers etc that i have talked to that dont know that. the 06+ the seal still goes in from the clutch side but the lettering on the seal is supposed to face the CRANKCASE NOT the CLUTCH. Not even the friendly guys over at HotRods knew that but after lots of time in the manual it is definitely the case. That is very important pointer number 1. Very important pointer number 2 is that the 04-05 DOES NOT have an installation depth spec. The 06+ however DEFINITELY DOES. I have seen many a 06+ seal pressed up against the bearing with the center torn out which is also what i had with mine one time. Honda specifies that that seal is to only be pressed in flush with the crank case. Now that we have the specs from Honda we can look at how to not screw up the seal when sliding the counter balance gear on.

The back of the gear that sits up against the crankshaft is very square and makes it very hard to get the seal to pop up over the edge of gear. I have seen many people recommend using a pick or something to pull the seal up over the edge but after trying it several times myself i have determined that i wrecked 2 of them that way by putting small cracks in them that ended up being the end of that seal. This time around what i did is i used a ton of lithium grease on everthing and as you can see by the pictures i rotated the crank with a ratchet and the bolt in the end as i put pressure on the gear to eventually get the seal to work itself onto the gear all at once. DO NOT worry about lining up the counter balance punch marks at this point just get it through the first lip of the seal. once it is in the first lip then carefully pull it back just far enough to line up the punch marks and then slowly while rotating the crank slide the gear the rest of the way on the crank. That tip alone i cannot stress enough. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING!!!!

IF YOU HAVENT REMOVED THE OLD SEAL YET
Let me save you some trouble. do not try to grab the seal with a needle nose and pull it out and definitely do not pound something down beside the seal to pry it out. many many people screw up the seat for the seal by doing that. what works best is to drill a tiny hole in the back of it on 2 sides of the crank and then turn 2 wood screws barely into it. DO NOT HIT THE BEARING. Then grab 2 sets of pliers or something and just give it a swift yank and it pops right out. wipe up the opening and you have a brand new looking seat for the new seal. Now what to do if you did marr the seat? Its a pain but not as bad as it could be. fill the marks just a little more than full with rtf silicone on the end of a micro screwdriver before reinstalling the seal and it should seal up nicely.

Last but not least. Use Blue loctite and wipe in on the outside of the seal before you put it in. i have seen 2 of the seals simply get pushed out into the transmission because there was nothing there to hold them. any questions about the pics just ask.
 

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Thanks for the info and post!


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