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Discussion Starter #1
Who does it and who can tell me about it? Winter is coming soon and I'm starting to thinking about ice again...

Set up?
What kind of tires?
Studded fronts?
Can you run TT or just oval?
 

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i can't tell you much but i've seen videos where they sipe the tires in such a way that they wheelie on glare ice. its nuts. i heard it can take up to 8 hours to sipe one tire correctly so it'll hook. no studs at all in rubber classes.
 

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Set up?
What kind of tires?
Studded fronts?
Can you run TT or just oval?

Rubber ice racing is a blast. I my opinion better and more technical than studded. For the set up you want D10 Hoosier (the softest) in the rear. Alone they work okay but with sipping they really start to hook-up. You'll need a sipping tool that holds razor blades for small cuts and a heated sipping tool for bigger cuts. Short and skinny in the rear is the name of the game. A properly set up rubber quad is great on the oval but can also rock on tt. Preference is large diameter single rib dune tires on the front - trust me they look unusual but are fantastic on the ice.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you studding the fronts? I saw a video and it looked like the ribs had some... Any chance you could post a couple pics of the siping on the tires and maybe the tools too? Skinny in the rear, like stock width and keeping the front out at 50"?

I've only seen a couple YouTube videos and they look like they're flying on the oval. I'm not even sure anyone races rubber around here. If I end up grabbing some tires and trying it out it will be more of a personal challenge then anything else lol.
 

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I'd live to see some video and/or pictures of how your quad sits and tires.
Does a sway bar matter if all the weight is on the rear?
 

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We ice race here in Maine. I usually run Cheng shin 286 18"-10.5"-8" tires, with kold kutter kanadian screws. Some use nylon nuts on the inside to hold the studs, I have trimmed the knobbies down to form a diamond so when the studs screw in theres no rubber contact on the ice. I usually run one stud per knob for the rear. As for studded fronts I have friend sand star fronts with the two ribs, just line the knobs all the way around in a line. I have also tried 20-6-10 Mx razr with a bunch of studs. Personally I like razrs for our road course track. We run 50" wide and around 5-6" high off the ground, sway bar and stabilizers help. I have only raced in studded races here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've done some stud stuff Jeff... Looking to try something new. Where are you racing ice? You're not far from me at all. I usually hit up a lake in shapleigh.

Thanks mike, I'll check out that link.
 

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I just re read the title haha I feel like a dummy now lol. I feel like the rubber ice racing would be a ton of fun for sure. We usually make our road course in Waterboro, a little oval in berwick then a big oval at Northwood NH. Last year a guy we race with set up heats and mains with points accumulating. I want to say the site is flat track evolution. I love ice racing but put most of my money in my drag quad last year so I didn't get to race. If your interested hit me up when winter comes.
 

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I prefer studded for the speed, but some of the rubber guys go pretty fast. What I have seen in the past in the rubber classes is a shorter swingarm, narrow width in the rear, and the rear is slammed to the ground leaving the front height alone. Some guys will also have a higher stem and bars for leverage. As for tires, I have seen quite of few use the hoosiers, as stated above, or the Snow tires in the rear. I forget the brand name, either ITP or Maxxis I beleive. For the front it seems the skinnier the better.

I usually run in the SWIRA (South Wisconsin Ice Racing Association).
 

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Sway bars always help, they transfer weight to the rear from the front, I've seen same things super short swingarms, with hoosier D10s siped like crazy
 

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Rubber tires...Hoosier are the by far the best tire. Yes you must cut and/or sipe them however you believe will work best (all kinds of differing opinions on the proper way to cut a tire).

You do NOT need to have the rear end "slamed" down. In fact, the faster we have been going, the closer to mx type ride heights we've had (soft suspension setups though). I'd show our current setups but those pics aren't on photobucket so I can't upload them.

Do NOT put a sway-bar on a rubber quad (some people have tried).
 

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I do run CWIRA (and occasional Escanaba Michigan races, and occasional SWIRA races). CWIRA doesn't normally do saturday races. They will probably have one the first weekend of the year and maybe 1 in the middle of the year. I've heard rumors of SWIRA doing 2 Sat/Sun race weekends so those will be something I plan to be at (their payout is amazing).
 

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I race non-studded mostly in Escanaba/Gladsone Michigan. Cut Hoosiers, and a short/narrow stance. I agree, forget about the swaybar. I have been to one CWIRA race and they are REALLY fast, those guys have some great advice to share for someone just getting into the sport. Good luck Baileygunns!
 

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id like to see how you sipe your tires , we race on ice here too and the rubber class is all about 4snows and railing the outside wall WOT like idiots. that would turn some heads here for sure !
 

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haha, you would KILL the competition as long as there are studded guys to rough up the inside line. If there are no studded guys then its a toss up depending on conditions and size of track.
I only know how to do tires for tracks with tons of studded guys. (no siping, just 5 grooves per block in each direction and in an X patter on the outside blocks....so you have like 20-30 tiny knobbies each block...that and groove the factory grooves deeper).
 

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Yes we usually have the studded class with plenty of practice times in the morning so the ice gets rough enough. The oval tracks are not very long but i dont think the curves are too tight for the 4snows to have an advantage over the hoosiers.

do you go -2 or more on the swingarms and what shocks do you use
 
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