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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after about 4 hours of cussing, the Rekluse is in. I started to take pics but my battery died on my camera right after the perch adjuster install
. I wasnt going to wait since I wanted it in tonight and ready to tune tomorrow but I will provide tips on installation. All in all it was pretty straight foward but I do have my gripes on this kit.

First when installing the inner and outer pressure plate there are these 12 "fingers" on the inner that fit into precision holes on the outer and mine was VERY frustrating to get alligned because of flash in the holes. For such a tight fit I would think the flash wouldnt be there but it was. No big deal, I took a rat tail file and lightly cleaned up the holes after about 20 minutes of screwing with it and finally got that together.

My second gripe is the pics in the instructions are from the first run Rekluse's Im sure because things like the perch adjuster, adjuster boot and a couple other little things didnt look the same and it took a little imagination to figure it out. Also, the adjuster doesnt seem very secure with as little pressure as it has holding it into the stock adjuster, I can see problems with that I think.

My third gripe goes back to the pressure plate. The instructions say to put the first ball in the pocket that is marked. There are NO MARKED POCKETS! I looked over the outer pressure plate like 50 times then had my wife look over it and just for giggles had my 5 year old look and no one saw any markings of any kind so I just popped one ball in there and went on every 6th hole from there like the instructions said.

My fourth gripe concerns the perch adjuster again. The kit included 2 springs but the instructions dont say anything about a second spring so once again, my imagination came into play, and all I can figure is that the heavier one is to give a heavier feel to the clutch lever and lighter one a lighter feel??!! Ill call Rekluse tomorrow on that one.

My final gripe (so far) is when the bike is running I can hear the 30 balls in the pressure plate making a faint sound, is this normal? Ill ask about that one as well. If its normal then it gives me an excuse to get some louder exhaust, the sound is barely there but it is driving me nuts.

Dont get me wrong, for the most part the kit is AWSOME and being able to start my quad in first and let it sit there and idle in first is cool as hell but I just wanted to point out some tips and concerns when installing the kit. The instructions for the most part do a great job in explaining everything as long as you read a little ahead and pace yourself. I have NO patience so if I can do it, anyone who knows how to work a ratchet can. Ill let you guys know how the kit works out tomorrow night after I get a little seat time with it.
 

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Originally posted by BingeNut@Jul 28 2004, 10:23 AM
Keep us updated on how it works, and let us know what Rekluse says about your other issues.
ditto ^_^
 

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Hmm - only took me about an hour to install mine. Did you turn the quad on it's side for the install?

Anyhow - no, there is not noise from mine.

Perch adjuster - over six months now and no problems so far. Make sure you adjust it properly, I know two guys who did not and roasted their clutches after about 2hrs ride time.

Perch adjuster springs --- they are to change the engagement rate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I started about 8pm and finished at 12:04. I had the quad on its side and dont really see any other way once you get to the part with the outer and the balls. Mine isnt really noisey but when sitting on the quad I can lean over to the right and hear the balls making a slight noise. Also my clutch lever feels like it had little to no resistance and even though I havent ridden it yet Im sure it will make a little noise from bouncing all over the place. The thing that took me so long was cleaning the outer plates flash. I jacked with it for about 20 minutes before finding the problem then it took me another 20 minutes with a file getting it all cleaned out of there. I could be wrong about the perch adjuster but there doesnt seem to be enough tension there to hold the perch adjuster to the stock adjuster firmly and effectively causing the loose lever I explained earlier. Does that make sense Gabe? With the stock setup you have the 6 pressure plate springs keeping tension on the clutch lever but now you have a weak little spring in the adjuster providing tension. I have yet to hear from Rekluse but I only sent them the email today so we will see. Also as far as the two springs are concerned I am assuming the the weak spring is for a loose converter effect (higher stall) and the heavier spring is for a tighter converter (lower stall) right?
 

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My lever doesn't rattle that I've noticed.

You'll find that the lever firms up when RPMs come up above stall speed. Also remember that the clutch *MUST* be adjusted with the quad running above 4500 RPM. This is where the guys I know went wrong.

The springs in the perch adjuster alter engagement rate, not stall speed. Stall speed is adjusted by threading in or out the black perch adjuster.

If I'm thinking correctly, the light spring is for a fast engagement & the heavy spring is for a slower engagement.

What I mean by engagement rate is how wide an RPM band the clutch actually stalls over --- i.e. does it take it 1000 RPM to fully lock after it begins to stall or 500RPM (those are arbitrary numbers). The stall speed setting determines at what RPM that process starts.

I haven't noticed any abnormal noises at all from my clutch, but I haven't been sticking my ear down there listening for any either. With me sitting on the quad or walking around it - I've not heard anything.

Rekluse has great support from what I've heard from friends - I've not had to call them myself, but I've heard nothing but good from those that have talked to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dont get me wrong, all in all the product is AWSOME and Im sure they will be quick to answer my questions. I think the only reason I noticed the noise is because when I first fired it up I had just changed the tranny fluid and so the clutch was dry and I heard the Rekluse VERY loudly then it quieten'd once the oil moved around so I just seemed to notice it and it may go away after I ride it. I still need to jack up the rear and get the RPM's up to properly adjust the clutch as well so Im not passing judgement untill I do that and get to ride a little. It just started raining here so I wont be able to ride the neighborhood tonight unfortunatly but its cool. Hey Gabe, what oil do you use in the tranny side? I have heard everything from mobile one red cap to 10W-40 to 80W. Im wondering if your using the thick stuff and that is why yours is quieter.
 

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I've been running the same Mobil1 15w50 I run in the engine side.

You can adjust the clutch in neutral, no need to do it in gear --- it will be engaging just the same either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I didnt know if it had to be in gear or not so I jacked up the back went up to about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and set the clutch adjuster. It deffinetly tightened up the cable but the adjuster still sits a little cocked because of the way the cable runs. I also swapped out the spring with the lighter one since I do more technical trails at lower speeds than cross country riding. I topped off the tranny with 10W-40 and took her out in the rain. The quad did AWSOME and it took no getting used to on my part to forget about the clutch lever. Some things I noticed are the tranny doesnt like to shift unless you give it just a little gas and no WOT shifting without letting off just a smidge. The quad also has BADASS engine braking now but kinda sucks when you want to haul butt down the street and coast. Now the quad has a tendacy to engine brake and pop out the exhaust. Still not a big deal and Im sure it just comes with the territory. Last but certainly not least DO NOT FORGET THE OIL CAP WHEN FILLING! I filled my tranny before going out and when I came back my exhaust was smoking. I forgot to put the cap back on and it was splashing up on the exhaust. I only took it up and down the street so it didnt loose very much oil thankfully. Also this thing pulls monster wheelies now with the stall adjuster set up in the RPM range a bit. I absolutely LOVE this thing and I wish I could go riding right now :( One last thing I noticed and Im sure I can adjust this out is that when the quad is sitting still and I goose it a little in 1st it pops up and then dies. Kinda like the clutch doesnt have enough time to disengage fully before stalling out. I think I just have to play with it though.
 

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Gabe,

I was wondering if you could give any marital advice. The clutch in my wife does not engage to clean the house. I tried swearing at it, but get dirty looks. I can't beat her since there is laws against that. Will an auto clutch help? :D

On the serious side, has any one tried the manual adjustment with a Works Connection Pro perch with the hot start lever.

Thanks
Popo
 

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I was wondering if you could give any marital advice. The clutch in my wife does not engage to clean the house. I tried swearing at it, but get dirty looks. I can't beat her since there is laws against that. Will an auto clutch help? [/b]

:lol: :D
:mellow: :huh: :lol: :D
 

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I also swapped out the spring with the lighter one since I do more technical trails at lower speeds than cross country riding.[/b]
The lighter spring makes the clutch engage faster - so you may actually want the heavier spring for a more smooth progression... Think of it as slipping the clutch slowly as you take off versus dumping the clutch --- the difference won't be that pronounced, but that's the idea.

Some things I noticed are the tranny doesnt like to shift unless you give it just a little gas and no WOT shifting without letting off just a smidge.[/b]
This should be exactly the same as without the autoclutch. With a normal clutch you can't typically shift under power without either letting off a touch or bumping the clutch lever to unload the transmission.

The quad also has BADASS engine braking now[/b]
This should also be the same as before as once engaged, the clutch is really no different than a normal manual clutch setup.

One thing you'll find is if you want the quad to freewheel you can pull the clutch lever to override, the engine will fall to an idle, then release the lever - it will freewheel until you blip the throttle and reengage the clutch.

One last thing I noticed and Im sure I can adjust this out is that when the quad is sitting still and I goose it a little in 1st it pops up and then dies[/b]
That's everyone's first instinct to do with the clutch to test it - it can be tuned out, but I wouldn't work too much at it - you are asking a lot from the engine by doing this:

First you are going from closed throttle to WOT almost immediately, dropping vacuum and pumping the engine full of raw fuel - at the same time, you are applying a heavy load to the engine as the clutch engages, then suddenly you chop the throttle which will release the load as the engine comes down & are asking that the engine recover to a smooth idle.

While doing all this, you also have to remember that you are dealing with an engine that runs fairly high compression, a wild cam (about 240 to 260 deg of duration at .040"), and a carburetor.

Needless to say, if the engine is not perfectly tuned, the idle is not high enough, and the stall speed is not high enough - when you gag the throttle, let the quad lurch forward, and promptly close the throttle - it may die.

This doesn't typically happen in normal riding conditions though (only when people are trying the clutch out for the first time) - take it for a good test ride & see if it is really an issue before spending too much time trying to correct it.

That all said --- if I remember correctly from my automotive EFI tuning days, the cause of this is the mixture going really lean as the engine comes to an idle. It may be difficult to tune out of the carb as this is a dynamic that's not easily controlled with the static nature of carburetor jetting.

I was wondering if you could give any marital advice. The clutch in my wife does not engage to clean the house. I tried swearing at it, but get dirty looks. I can't beat her since there is laws against that. Will an auto clutch help?[/b]
Hmm, in that case, it may just be easier to get a new model :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the info Gabe, sounds like I finally got this thing working correctly. I noticed at idle the clutch lever on the motor is almost at full pull ( like you were pulling the clutch lever on a stock setup) and when you goose it a little and look at the lever, it will pull back like you were letting of the clutch, hence its engaging. So when Im haulin down the trail at the top of fifth then it would make sense that lever would be all the way to the back, meaning the clutch is fully engaged so I see why you said to pull the lever and bring the motor to an idle to coast. That makes sense now that I think of it. Im just now so used to pulling the clutch lever when the motor is off and feeling little to no travel but that is because the Rekluse has the clutch completely disengaged. I cant wait to try this thing out on the trails. There are a few very steep decents that I usually get a little shaky on because of the lack of engine braking on a manual tranny without fear of a stall. One last thing Gabe. Since I have the perch adjuster, what do I do if ever want to go back to complete control of the clutch with the lever? As I understood it, you could do that if you had the perch adjuster but I cant see how it would work.
 

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You can't keep the clutch from releasing at low RPMs - you can control the RPM at which it happens, but at some point, it will happen.

You can, however, completely control the clutch manually just like normal, only with the added benefit that at low RPMs it will disengage automatically. It will have a different feel though.

It will probably all become clear after a good ride.

What I meant about pulling the clutch in to coast is -- yes, you can pull it in and it will act as you normally expect it to, but...

Lets say you're going down a long steep hill - you can pull the clutch in and let the engine come to an idle, at this point the quad will be freewheeling as normally expected. When you let the clutch out - since the engine is at an idle and there is no centrifugal force to couple the engine to the trans - it will continue to free wheel ---- until you blip the throttle, which will re-engage the clutch and from that point on, create it's own centrifugal force to keep itself engaged, until you pull the lever again or RPMs drop below the stall point.

If that doesn't make sense, it will after you ride it a while. You just have to think about what's going on with relationship to the transmission, engine, and with the balls in the clutch (that are essentially connected to the engine side)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Makes perfect sense, Thanks Gabe!
 
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