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2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was reading some old posts and i saw one that mentioned porting these motors without a big bore is a waste of time and may make the quad run like crap. Is that accurate? I have an hrc cam full sparks exhaust with uni filter, and a QS 2 on the carb. If i decided to do just a port job with a carb bore wouldn’t that give me some Significant power without a big bore kit? Or is it really a waste of time? I cant see how it would be. Especially if it gets done by someone who knows what they’re doing. Ive heard porting these motors wakes them up. If i do a bore, it would be 470 at most. But prefer to keep stock bore with the mods i mentioned. Someone on here must have a stock bore with a port job. Yes??
 

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Yes it will really open up the engine to potentailly a lot of power when done right. Yes you can port a Stock Bore engine, not sure why anyone would think it's a waste of time on a stock bore engine. If they said they did it and their bike ran like crap that means they either they did not port it right by making the ports way to big or just didn't know what they were doing when porting in general, or was ported right but was not set up right by having a bad exhaust, bad intake set up, bad cam combo or all of the above.

Porting any engine will improve it's power (wih or even with out a cam) not because it will "flow More Air" but the main goal is to correct the flow of the air entering the engine. With a big bore engine yes you wanna flow a little more air and correct air flow pattern. With porting for a big bore head vs a normal bore head the porting methods will need to be slightly differnt. I usually always to chamber work on anything big bore and +1 Valves.

Now say if you did a Big Bore "kit" and no port work, it will work however because now with more displacment it's They will become major torque mosters down low but the HP will fall off really soon vs a properly ported head for the big bore should make HP up to the Rev Limiter and will still wanna keep climbing HP fast the Stock Rev limiter (On the trx/CRF motors I have found that is) they start to hit rev limiter when they really wann make power.

Now for a Decent Set up wA good cam and exhaust. Porting is the best thing you can do to any engine in my opinion. It's all about making the air flow in and out faster and smoother with less obstruction. The 2006+ TRX450ER heads flow pretty well from factory but they have potentail to flow even better when ported correctly.


Port it, go with a little more compression, bore the carb to 43.5, get a stage 2 cam is a good start on the 06 engines.
 

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2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes it will really open up the engine to potentailly a lot of power when done right. Yes you can port a Stock Bore engine, not sure why anyone would think it's a waste of time on a stock bore engine. If they said they did it and their bike ran like crap that means they either they did not port it right by making the ports way to big or just didn't know what they were doing when porting in general, or was ported right but was not set up right by having a bad exhaust, bad intake set up, bad cam combo or all of the above.

Porting any engine will improve it's power (wih or even with out a cam) not because it will "flow More Air" but the main goal is to correct the flow of the air entering the engine. With a big bore engine yes you wanna flow a little more air and correct air flow pattern. With porting for a big bore head vs a normal bore head the porting methods will need to be slightly differnt. I usually always to chamber work on anything big bore and +1 Valves.

Now say if you did a Big Bore "kit" and no port work, it will work however because now with more displacment it's They will become major torque mosters down low but the HP will fall off really soon vs a properly ported head for the big bore should make HP up to the Rev Limiter and will still wanna keep climbing HP fast the Stock Rev limiter (On the trx/CRF motors I have found that is) they start to hit rev limiter when they really wann make power.

Now for a Decent Set up wA good cam and exhaust. Porting is the best thing you can do to any engine in my opinion. It's all about making the air flow in and out faster and smoother with less obstruction. The 2006+ TRX450ER heads flow pretty well from factory but they have potentail to flow even better when ported correctly.


Port it, go with a little more compression, bore the carb to 43.5, get a stage 2 cam is a good start on the 06 engines.
What compression to you recommend? And i just put an hrc cam that i bought of someone on this site. They stopped making them so i bought it just to say i have one lol. So port carb to 43.5, and how much mire compression? Plus the the port job & exhaust with jet kit. Will make good power. Thanks for clearing that up.
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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I agree with @Ryan94Wright and if you look at some of the threads that you actually posted in in the dyno room forum, you can see some wicked SB/SS motors making some awesome power.

Porting is awesome, the only bad thing is the cost. If you are running an HRC cam, (and I think you bought an early HRC cam didn’t you??) and you cut the green wire you should now really be running a spring kit. And as long as you have the head at the shop you definitely should get a valve job and new valves, seals, and obviously gaskets. Now you are at $1500 or easily more just to get your head ported.
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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I know you asked Ryan, but I posted my last comment just as you posted yours, so just to chime in, I recommend as much compression as you can lol. Lots of guys are afraid of it, but I think it’s great, and makes for a super responsive motor with nice off-idle performance. I would do at least 13:1 if you have access to good fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes i bought an early hrc cam. So thats why i asked the question cuz port, valves and springs are next. I didnt do it this time around due to the cost. But i replaced the cam chain, installed the hrc cam, carb rebuild with QS & checked the valves ( they were in spec) so ill ride that for the winter and in the spring I’ll probably send the head out to get ported, do a valve job with more compression. And bore out the carb. So i guess my final question is…. When i do the work in the spring, what compression, and valves should i run? I hear the CRF valves and springs will fit in these motors and are very solid. Is this true?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I mean i can buy the expensive stuff at 20$ a gallon but will not be able to afford it cuz i ride all year round, a lot in the winter on the snowmobile trails. So sticking with pump gas is my only option financially,Can i do 13:1 with pump gas?
 

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A lot of people will say not to run Pump Gas or are scared of pump gasoline with 13:1 piston however with a 13:1 Piston you can run a mix of race fuel or strait race fuel if you want. A lot of newer bikes run 13:5.1 Compression and they're made to run on regular pump fuel. If you're riding in hot weather all the time then yes get race fuel because it will be much more prone to detonation. If you live in a cold cleiment and do a lot of snow riding and so on yu should be okay.

Now when you run a cam that has no overlap or very little overlap (wide lobe seperation which makes valves stay closed longer) with a high Compression Piston which increases the "dynamic compression" that is where you will start wanting to run only race fuel because you biuld so much more cylinder pressure that the fuel will start to "diesel" where it ignites before the spark plug gets to ignite the fuel so when the spark plug does fire you now have 2 flame fronts hitting each other which creates "knock" and then pistons get broken.

However A Stage 1, 2, (or your HRC) with a 13:1 piston will be fine on regular fuel. The HRC or the Sage 1 wold work really well with 13:1 or a 13:5 piston assuming you're staying stock bore. Just make sure that you always get brand new fuel if the bike sits for a 1 to 2 weeks (or longer) and try to run as much of it out of the bike each time you ride prior to parking it because nowdays pump gas goes bad after about a week or 2 ''looses it's octane rating''. If you're worried about fuel get a bottle of "VP Maddative" they sell it at any AutoZone or O-Reilly's it 22 bucks a can and it will treat 10 Gallons of Fuel it's pretty good stuff and does work. Mix half a can of Maddative to 5 Gallon gas can of Gasoline and you should be fine.


I would say Final answer and this is just my opinion this set up would make you happy as hell.

HRC Cam (or a Stage 1 Hot Cam)
Porte the Head (With Chamber work)
Ferrea +1 Exhaust ,+2 Intake
Ferrea Duel Valve Springs
Bore the Caburetor to 43.5mm
13:1 Piston (I prefer JE Pistons as personal prefernce) CP Pistons are good too thuugh and most comonly used.

13:5.1 should be a Safe piston with that cam and Combustion Chamber work done too. Chamber work will lower the Cumbstion Camber Volume which will decrease the static Compression Ratio and the 13:5 will make up for whtats been taken out of the chamber.
 

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if you can get race fuel compression is worth it. the cam will allow you to run higher compression safely unless its like 95F outside anyways. but there is always a chance there could be an issue. as @Ryan94Wright explained: you can run vp madditive if you are worried.

I run a 12.5:1 custom piston for this very reason. would 13:1 be an issue? I dont want to find out b/c of the varied conditions I ride Id rather play it safe. I have ridden places where we have to go get gas off trail and hop back on trail and you cant always get 93 octane or grab some VP
 
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2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A lot of people will say not to run Pump Gas or are scared of pump gasoline with 13:1 piston however with a 13:1 Piston you can run a mix of race fuel or strait race fuel if you want. A lot of newer bikes run 13:5.1 Compression and they're made to run on regular pump fuel. If you're riding in hot weather all the time then yes get race fuel because it will be much more prone to detonation. If you live in a cold cleiment and do a lot of snow riding and so on yu should be okay.

Now when you run a cam that has no overlap or very little overlap (wide lobe seperation which makes valves stay closed longer) with a high Compression Piston which increases the "dynamic compression" that is where you will start wanting to run only race fuel because you biuld so much more cylinder pressure that the fuel will start to "diesel" where it ignites before the spark plug gets to ignite the fuel so when the spark plug does fire you now have 2 flame fronts hitting each other which creates "knock" and then pistons get broken.

However A Stage 1, 2, (or your HRC) with a 13:1 piston will be fine on regular fuel. The HRC or the Sage 1 wold work really well with 13:1 or a 13:5 piston assuming you're staying stock bore. Just make sure that you always get brand new fuel if the bike sits for a 1 to 2 weeks (or longer) and try to run as much of it out of the bike each time you ride prior to parking it because nowdays pump gas goes bad after about a week or 2 ''looses it's octane rating''. If you're worried about fuel get a bottle of "VP Maddative" they sell it at any AutoZone or O-Reilly's it 22 bucks a can and it will treat 10 Gallons of Fuel it's pretty good stuff and does work. Mix half a can of Maddative to 5 Gallon gas can of Gasoline and you should be fine.


I would say Final answer and this is just my opinion this set up would make you happy as hell.

HRC Cam (or a Stage 1 Hot Cam)
Porte the Head (With Chamber work)
Ferrea +1 Exhaust ,+2 Intake
Ferrea Duel Valve Springs
Bore the Caburetor to 43.5mm
13:1 Piston (I prefer JE Pistons as personal prefernce) CP Pistons are good too thuugh and most comonly used.

13:5.1 should be a Safe piston with that cam and Combustion Chamber work done too. Chamber work will lower the Cumbstion Camber Volume which will decrease the static Compression Ratio and the 13:5 will make up for whtats been taken out of the chamber.
Ok great, you guys have been a tremendous help thank you. Now i have a blue print of the mods i will do in the spring. I will do that exact set up except ill go with cjm,s compression (12.5:1) better safe than sorry is what I’ve adopted in my old age lol, i dont take chances anymore. Plus it gets hot in the northeast during the summer months. And i ride alot in the summer too. Wish i lived near one of you, I’d drop off my quad and have iether one of you do the work For half the price 🤣. Thanks agsin gentlemen.
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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HRC Cam (or a Stage 1 Hot Cam)
Porte the Head (With Chamber work)
Ferrea +1 Exhaust ,+2 Intake
Ferrea Duel Valve Springs
Bore the Caburetor to 43.5mm
13:1 Piston (I prefer JE Pistons as personal prefernce) CP Pistons are good too thuugh and most comonly used.
Dang dude, why the huge valves and small cam recommendations?? Lol!
 

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2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A lot of people will say not to run Pump Gas or are scared of pump gasoline with 13:1 piston however with a 13:1 Piston you can run a mix of race fuel or strait race fuel if you want. A lot of newer bikes run 13:5.1 Compression and they're made to run on regular pump fuel. If you're riding in hot weather all the time then yes get race fuel because it will be much more prone to detonation. If you live in a cold cleiment and do a lot of snow riding and so on yu should be okay.

Now when you run a cam that has no overlap or very little overlap (wide lobe seperation which makes valves stay closed longer) with a high Compression Piston which increases the "dynamic compression" that is where you will start wanting to run only race fuel because you biuld so much more cylinder pressure that the fuel will start to "diesel" where it ignites before the spark plug gets to ignite the fuel so when the spark plug does fire you now have 2 flame fronts hitting each other which creates "knock" and then pistons get broken.

However A Stage 1, 2, (or your HRC) with a 13:1 piston will be fine on regular fuel. The HRC or the Sage 1 wold work really well with 13:1 or a 13:5 piston assuming you're staying stock bore. Just make sure that you always get brand new fuel if the bike sits for a 1 to 2 weeks (or longer) and try to run as much of it out of the bike each time you ride prior to parking it because nowdays pump gas goes bad after about a week or 2 ''looses it's octane rating''. If you're worried about fuel get a bottle of "VP Maddative" they sell it at any AutoZone or O-Reilly's it 22 bucks a can and it will treat 10 Gallons of Fuel it's pretty good stuff and does work. Mix half a can of Maddative to 5 Gallon gas can of Gasoline and you should be fine.


I would say Final answer and this is just my opinion this set up would make you happy as hell.

HRC Cam (or a Stage 1 Hot Cam)
Porte the Head (With Chamber work)
Ferrea +1 Exhaust ,+2 Intake
Ferrea Duel Valve Springs
Bore the Caburetor to 43.5mm
13:1 Piston (I prefer JE Pistons as personal prefernce) CP Pistons are good too thuugh and most comonly used.

13:5.1 should be a Safe piston with that cam and Combustion Chamber work done too. Chamber work will lower the Cumbstion Camber Volume which will decrease the static Compression Ratio and the 13:5 will make up for whtats been taken out of the chamber.
Ok great, you guys have been a tremendous help thank you. Now i have a blue print of the mods i will do in the spring. I will do that exact set up. Wish i lived near one of you, I’d drop off my quad and have iether one of you do the work lol.
 

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Registered
2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
Joined
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940 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A lot of people will say not to run Pump Gas or are scared of pump gasoline with 13:1 piston however with a 13:1 Piston you can run a mix of race fuel or strait race fuel if you want. A lot of newer bikes run 13:5.1 Compression and they're made to run on regular pump fuel. If you're riding in hot weather all the time then yes get race fuel because it will be much more prone to detonation. If you live in a cold cleiment and do a lot of snow riding and so on yu should be okay.

Now when you run a cam that has no overlap or very little overlap (wide lobe seperation which makes valves stay closed longer) with a high Compression Piston which increases the "dynamic compression" that is where you will start wanting to run only race fuel because you biuld so much more cylinder pressure that the fuel will start to "diesel" where it ignites before the spark plug gets to ignite the fuel so when the spark plug does fire you now have 2 flame fronts hitting each other which creates "knock" and then pistons get broken.

However A Stage 1, 2, (or your HRC) with a 13:1 piston will be fine on regular fuel. The HRC or the Sage 1 wold work really well with 13:1 or a 13:5 piston assuming you're staying stock bore. Just make sure that you always get brand new fuel if the bike sits for a 1 to 2 weeks (or longer) and try to run as much of it out of the bike each time you ride prior to parking it because nowdays pump gas goes bad after about a week or 2 ''looses it's octane rating''. If you're worried about fuel get a bottle of "VP Maddative" they sell it at any AutoZone or O-Reilly's it 22 bucks a can and it will treat 10 Gallons of Fuel it's pretty good stuff and does work. Mix half a can of Maddative to 5 Gallon gas can of Gasoline and you should be fine.


I would say Final answer and this is just my opinion this set up would make you happy as hell.

HRC Cam (or a Stage 1 Hot Cam)
Porte the Head (With Chamber work)
Ferrea +1 Exhaust ,+2 Intake
Ferrea Duel Valve Springs
Bore the Caburetor to 43.5mm
13:1 Piston (I prefer JE Pistons as personal prefernce) CP Pistons are good too thuugh and most comonly used.

13:5.1 should be a Safe piston with that cam and Combustion Chamber work done too. Chamber work will lower the Cumbstion Camber Volume which will decrease the static Compression Ratio and the 13:5 will make up for whtats been taken out of the chamber.
Ok great, you guys have been a tremendous help thank you. Now i have a blue print of the mods i will do in the spring. I will do that exact set up. Wish i lived near one of you, I’d drop off my quad and have iether one of you do the work lol.
 

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2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry about the triple post not sure what happened lol. I can upgrade the cam when i do the valves and port job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dang dude, why the huge valves and small cam recommendations?? Lol!
Ill upgrade to a stage 3 when i do all the other work in the spring ( tax money) I probably should have waited on buying the cam but it was a good deal and they dont make hrc anymore.
 

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2006 trx 450er. Stock motor, sparks full exhaust, elka legacy series shocks, and many more boltons!!
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I meant to say +1 on intake and +1 on the exhaust lol. As for the Cam Shaft it's more about the Lobe offset rather then lift.
Ok no worries, thanks for clearing that up. I would have went with 1 exhaust & 2 intake if you didnt.
 
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