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Discussion Starter #1
Well i put my main jet in(180) and my air main blockoff plug in but couldn't get the two screws out to change the jet needle. I didn't have the size screw driver i needed and hope i didn't mess them up to bad where i can't get them out with the right size! What exactly does the jet needle do? I'm new to these carbs and am not sure but if i was to guess it helps let more fuel in to the carb? So i read in the manual that the original jet needle is set at the 3rd clip and that is what the dynojet kit said to set their jet needle at. Is there any difference in using the dynojet needle over the factory?
 

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Mine was a pain in the rear to get out. I ended up using a Snap-On #1 Pozidriv screwdriver, and dipped the tip of the driver into valve grinding compound. The valve grinding compound is an old mechanic's secret and a tech article I read in Motor magazine many years back said that it gives you 800%, you read it right eight hundred percent better bite on the heads of screws. I talked to DynoJet's tech line before I made the attempt and they said it has to be done with their jet kit. Once I got it apart, I went to a fastener warehouse and got the very knowledgeable old gentleman who runs the place to source me two of the same type screws with allen heads. I did the same for the four screws that hold the carb top cover on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
RedDogg thanks for the article that helps me out TREMENDOUSLY! DiesilB59 where did you get the valve grinding compound at? Parts store or machine shop I guess? Also I went and bought a #1 screwdriver but what exactly is a Pozidriv screwdriver,never heard of that type. I will be changing over to an allen head type screw when I get them out!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice desert! I'll try that first thing tommorrow and see if that works. The only thing is the screw closest to the front of the bike seemed to be a little more of a cramped area than the other one. But then again my wife say's I'm blind and don't hear to well either :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well guy's i got those darn screws out today but i ended up drilling the one closest to the gas tank out. I was kind of nerves drilling that one
Couldn't find any allen heads today but found some screws of a higher grade and ALOT TIGHTER FITTING HEAD for a #1 screwdriver. You have to pull these babies off of the screwdriver. Now to do some fine tuning tommorrow and go to St. Joe state park Tuesday and test out my new upgrades REAL GOOD!!!! THANKS FOR THE ADVICE GUY'S!!!
 

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I know I'm a little late chiming in, but here goes anyway. A pozidriv screwdriver is kinda like a cross between a philips head and square drive driver, with gripper flutes on the "philips" blade edges. It's one of the best investments I've made as a technician. Valve grinding compound is available through most auto stores that cater to the professional. You usually have to get the grungy guy behind the counter to get it from the back for you. MAC tools just released a new liquid "screw bite" compound, which I have yet to receive from my MAC guy, but I'd guess it's the same as valve grinding compound. Don't use anything more than a slight coating on the blade as it can do damage if it gets into the moving parts of the carb. Another thing that works in a pinch to give you a little more mechanincal advantage is baby powder. Also, rocking the screw counter clockwise to clockwise a few times will help to unseat it from where it's stuck at. You just have to keep good pressure on the fastener and make sure you're straight on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's never to late to chime in! I just bought a 118 pcs screwdriver bit set that has those type of bits in it. Looks like they should work rather well.
 

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If you don't have access to any fancy screwdrivers the regular old phillips will work just make sure it is at least close to the right size. When doing it this way make sure you put a good amount of downward pressure on the screw, if you don't you will strip the screw, if you strip your screw do say I didn't warn you
 
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