Not sure what is going on with my 450r. When I run through whoops or breaking bumps on a MX course, the the motor bogs out like it's running out of gas but then clears up and is fine. It almost seems like the carb is loading up from going through the whoops and then either drowns itself out, or is running out of gas. I endowed and almost went over the bars 4 times cus of this problem. On every other section of the course the bike was fine (Jumps, corners, uphills, downhills, flat straights). The only sections that it did it was immediately upon exiting the whoops. I did not alter anything on the carb or exhaust nor air box yet on my bike, it's all stock. I did take the airbox lid off to see if that would do anything, the bike bogged as soon as I'd give it more than 3/4 throttle. Any help would be appreciated.
Motor booging
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Joined
·
3,685 Posts
you cannot run it without the air box lid if you did not rejet...it wont run,,,..I hope you are not having this problem with the lid off....if so, just put the lid back on.
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
It sounds like air is getting in there somehow.
Joined
·
3,685 Posts
if there were a air getting in there, or a vacuum leak, you would know becasue it would be idleing way to high...and you could adjust the idle screw and it will make little or no change....
Joined
·
3,685 Posts
I would make sure the air screw is in the proper position for stock setting...it should be 1.5 out from all the way in....screw it in until it stops, then back it out 1.5 turns.....just to make sure.....if that dont work, I would take it to the dealer, Mine never has that problem on the whoops....runs nice and smooth
This is only my opinion, but if the bike is stock there might be a gear issue. The 450R is made for high speed, so in another words you should be in the middle of the power band or in a lower gear. The first thing you should do is put a smaller sprocket on like a 13t. Don't ever lug this bike because it's not made to lug(it's not a 400ex) Everytime you get on that bike, remind yourself it's a race bike.(So ride it like a race bike or like you stole it!). When I'm in the woods I may be in first or second but I'm always on the gas in the higher rpm range. If I get to low of rpm's then it sounds like it's going to die. When in doubt, GAS IT!!!! :lol:
One more thing! Any mod you make to this bike effects something else. So if you take off the air box lid you will have to rejet! On my bike I'm running on airbox lid at all, but of course I put a carb cam and exhaust on my bike!!
One more thing! Any mod you make to this bike effects something else. So if you take off the air box lid you will have to rejet! On my bike I'm running on airbox lid at all, but of course I put a carb cam and exhaust on my bike!!
Joined
·
3,685 Posts
rico, I think you nailed it....I was thinking that earlier but did not know how to explain it...but that could be it....What gear are you in when you are going through the whoops?....try dropping a gear...or changing sprockets, just to see what happens...I think Rico is right. B)
Thanks for all the help guys. I have the 13tooth installed and I hit the whoops in either first or second depending on if I double or skip the whoops. I am very used to riding a 2-stroke and am still getting used to the 4-stroke. I never lug the bike, I'm use to keeping the RPM's up as you do on the 2-stroke, and ride the 4-stroke pretty hard. To me, the bike seems like when a 2-stroke is fouling the plug. My 4-stroke buddies said it's not the same. Just a thought, could a loose kill switch connection cause this? Seems like if it was the kill, it would be more often then just on the whoops. Another thing, I can start the bike very very easy with out having to push in the hot start button, even after the bike has been ridden for and hour in 90 degree weather. Not sure if it's related or not
Lugging your bike is one thing, exspecially in the woods, but in the whoops you should be on the gas. Anyone can go through the whoops , but to go through them fast you must be on the gas. The way the bike bounces around I imagine it could feel funny in the whoops but your suppose to go through the whoops like your being chase by jonny law( the police). In another words, you are suppose to ride on top of the whoops, so if your not, you are not going fast enough and that my friend will cause you to bog/spit/flutter your bike. Put a 13t on and hit the whoops as fast as you can and I bet your bike will feel different!!!!
![]()
:lol:
![]()
pbell75, I had a problem with my kill switch and yes that can cause a problem!! Loose the kill switch make sure your connections are tight, then try it again! If a connection is loose your bike will spit/ flutter and only happen at certain times. You just don't know when!!!!!:mellow:
Then main issue is the connection you made between the kill and your coil. If any of them are loose even if you cannot see it your engine will act like it has a electical problem. Loose the kill switch until you know what the problem is and any other little thing that has to do with electrical and then try it again.
Then main issue is the connection you made between the kill and your coil. If any of them are loose even if you cannot see it your engine will act like it has a electical problem. Loose the kill switch until you know what the problem is and any other little thing that has to do with electrical and then try it again.
Joined
·
3,685 Posts
unless your kill switch is grounding out somehow.....yes that does make since...and the whoops are way rougher then anywhere else you could be....So i can see it only shorting out or opening up over the whoops if the wiring isnt good...a bare wire can hit any metal and kill it....or it can have a bad connection that when disconnected could cause it to die.......that could be it also...Originally posted by Rico'450R@May 11 2004, 12:59 PM
Lugging your bike is one thing, exspecially in the woods, but in the whoops you should be on the gas. Anyone can go through the whoops , but to go through them fast you must be on the gas. The way the bike bounces around I imagine it could feel funny in the whoops but your suppose to go through the whoops like your being chase by jonny law( the police). In another words, you are suppose to ride on top of the whoops, so if your not, you are not going fast enough and that my friend will cause you to bog/spit/flutter your bike. Put a 13t on and hit the whoops as fast as you can and I bet your bike will feel different!!!!:lol:![]()
![]()
I'd like to know if the original poster solved his problem.
I found this on the 'net today:
http://www.off-road.com/atv/reviews/quads/2004HondaTRX450r/
I found this on the 'net today:
http://www.off-road.com/atv/reviews/quads/2004HondaTRX450r/
Joined
·
3,775 Posts
Also maybe just check the cap on your plug, it could have a defect wich might cause it so its not snug on the plug.
my 450 does the same thing over real rough stuff while racing. It done it before i installed my kill switch.I think its the float level .It either getting to much or not enough fuel .It stopped on me today and the over flow was constantly flowing fuel.I finally got it to stop by tapping the side of the carb. so i'll pull out the carb to check it over.
"Another thing, I can start the bike very very easy with out having to push in the hot start button, even after the bike has been ridden for and hour in 90 degree weather. Not sure if it's related or not "
The message that this quote came from was lengthy and I think that some people may have missed it. I think that this is a concern. You should check you hotstart circuit and be sure that it is not stuck open or adjusted improperly. My R won't start unless my hotstart is pressed after riding for an hour, especially in 90 degree weather (FL). However, I'm not sure if this is related to your original problem. You don't want to ride with your hotstart open. IMO, that would cause a lean condition.
Also, turning your fuel screw out is only a bandaid on the real problem. Did you bottom out your fuel screw before backing it one full turn? You should not be 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw with a completely stock bike. If you're still under waranty, have a dealer check it out. If not, remove your float bowl and make sure your floats are free. Just my opinion.
The message that this quote came from was lengthy and I think that some people may have missed it. I think that this is a concern. You should check you hotstart circuit and be sure that it is not stuck open or adjusted improperly. My R won't start unless my hotstart is pressed after riding for an hour, especially in 90 degree weather (FL). However, I'm not sure if this is related to your original problem. You don't want to ride with your hotstart open. IMO, that would cause a lean condition.
Also, turning your fuel screw out is only a bandaid on the real problem. Did you bottom out your fuel screw before backing it one full turn? You should not be 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw with a completely stock bike. If you're still under waranty, have a dealer check it out. If not, remove your float bowl and make sure your floats are free. Just my opinion.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!