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If you wanted to go through the trouble to do it and do it right nothing would be wrong. Some things to think about though:1-you still have a set of arms that have non replaceable ball joints, of course you can change that too if you want to go through the trouble. 2-be careful when moving the mounts and putting the shocks on that if you do increase the travel much that you do not get outside of the amount or angle of travel that the factory location the ball joints are in can stand.
 

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I’m all for DIY projects, but this just doesn’t seem to be the best idea. As mentioned, will the stock joints travel that far without binding? By the time you cut up and weld in replaceable ball joints, move the mounting point, fabricate tubing to protect that now exposed mounting point, then strip and powdercoat you would be fairly close to the price of a medium range set of LT arms. Not to mention you’ll have to build a jig to keep your arms straight while you’re welding them. Lastly, you are still stuck with a fairly weak arm that is still stock width. Seems like a lot of effort for not much gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've already replaced the ball joints on the upper arms so they would be adjustable. I have the shock relocation brackets that lower youe front end. I was thinking I could weld those in place so the shock locations were the exact same. I got a great deal on fox evol shocks that are 20.5 for the front and I was just wondering If I could get away with modifying the front arms instead of buying some +1 xc arms and having to get different front wheels that have a 4+1 offset
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not going to be hitting any big jumps or anything just really aggressive trail ridding through wayne national Forrest. Which is balls to the wall for an hour st a time. How would I go about finding xc arms that will work with the length shocks I have? Just start calling about each brand? Ive only seen one company specific the length of shock needed for there arms
 

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Most arm companies will tell you what length shock is needed. You do need to know the extended and compressed length of those shocks though. Welding those brackets in place and trying those shock would be a nightmare imo. You are changing a whole lot of things into not so good territory. There is a whole lot of stuff that goes into getting the whole geometry set up right on the front end. There was some really good thread in the suspension area about lt and st and geometry. Most people really don't need the lt shocks and know that a lot of lt set ups do not get you more travel at the wheel then a correct st set up. The travel is actually referring to the shaft travel on the shock and not the amount of travel at the wheel. If you are lucky and those shocks are set up for a 450r on the lengths I would search for some arms if it was me. The 20.5 shocks are usually an mx shock and I am thinking companies more like Laeger, Lonestar and the likes used that length shock but can't remember exactly.
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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Soometimes a good deal isn’t always a good deal. That’s a long shock. And if you are running woods your going to want a MGC style arm and generally those shocks are around 18.5” long. I can’t remember off the top of my head, but I think stock shocks are in the 16.5” length range, so using a shock that is 4” longer is going to take some serious engineering on an arm that is designed for a 16.5” shock, not to mention, no matter what you do you’re going to have to take a bunch of measurements and send the shocks in to be built for your custom arms and then hope that they ride well.
 
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