my own personal way of breaking things in came from a Jack Roush article years ago...
his style of break in and the reasons for it are :
when an engine is fresh and has a sharp edged hone , new bearings...whatever...
there is a short period of time when the microscopic sharp edges are available to hone in the surfaces they will mate with , before they become rounded and wont break in or hone anything.... if you dont break them in hard and fast, then the full break in will never occur....
so... Roush's way was to bring an engine up to full operating temp with petroleum oil in it (synthetic is too good at preventing metal to metal, and thus isnt good for breaking in engines) ... and then the rings need the full force of combustion pressure to break in the rings and bore before everything becomes too rounded and dull to make it happen....
so, once up to temp its full throttle runs for 2 or three gears at a time, no keeping it at extended high rpm, but certainly ripping up to it before each shift... so like 2nd, 3rd, 4th to the top....
which will put the pressures needed to break in rings (and bearings)....
then you do chopped throttle engine braking ... in gear but no throttle decel... this creates a strong vacuum above the piston and pulls fresh oil up past the rings to flush out microscopic particles and re-lubricate....
and then once you have slowed down, hit the throttle again and rip through three gears.... folowed by chopped throttle / in gear / decel.... over and over for 15 minutes....
once you get through fifteen minutes of that... its drain the oil, change the filter, and re fill it with your favorite full synthetic oil (Redline) ....
done.... !!
i and many friend of mine have broken fresh engines in right on the dyno.... up to temp and then hit 10 full throttle dyno runs to the rev limiter with chopped throttle decel between the runs.... then cool down engine off for 5 min or so...then at it again .... repeating that cylcle maybe 5~10 times to complete the brak in...
now... the cool deal is you can watch the break in occur right on the dyno... if you have an engine combo you know will be close to 60hp... due to the lack of ring seal you will see the first set of runs start with maybe 53 hp and then by the last run of the first set you will have seen it come up to 55+.... next set of runs will end at 57... next set 58... and so on until you get several sets of 10 runs where the power is stable and consitant...that's when you know you are done breaking in rings...
anyways...for those reasons i have used that break in metod very siccessfully for many many years....
the old hot rodder break in addage goes like this:
"break 'em in slow and they will always be slow, break 'em in fast and they will always be fast"
and those are the reason why....
i would have to say that the on the gas for several gears, then engine braking , then on it again.... seems pretty much like what you would do as regular riding on a motocross track... i'm sure it would work just as well...
his style of break in and the reasons for it are :
when an engine is fresh and has a sharp edged hone , new bearings...whatever...
there is a short period of time when the microscopic sharp edges are available to hone in the surfaces they will mate with , before they become rounded and wont break in or hone anything.... if you dont break them in hard and fast, then the full break in will never occur....
so... Roush's way was to bring an engine up to full operating temp with petroleum oil in it (synthetic is too good at preventing metal to metal, and thus isnt good for breaking in engines) ... and then the rings need the full force of combustion pressure to break in the rings and bore before everything becomes too rounded and dull to make it happen....
so, once up to temp its full throttle runs for 2 or three gears at a time, no keeping it at extended high rpm, but certainly ripping up to it before each shift... so like 2nd, 3rd, 4th to the top....
which will put the pressures needed to break in rings (and bearings)....
then you do chopped throttle engine braking ... in gear but no throttle decel... this creates a strong vacuum above the piston and pulls fresh oil up past the rings to flush out microscopic particles and re-lubricate....
and then once you have slowed down, hit the throttle again and rip through three gears.... folowed by chopped throttle / in gear / decel.... over and over for 15 minutes....
once you get through fifteen minutes of that... its drain the oil, change the filter, and re fill it with your favorite full synthetic oil (Redline) ....
done.... !!
i and many friend of mine have broken fresh engines in right on the dyno.... up to temp and then hit 10 full throttle dyno runs to the rev limiter with chopped throttle decel between the runs.... then cool down engine off for 5 min or so...then at it again .... repeating that cylcle maybe 5~10 times to complete the brak in...
now... the cool deal is you can watch the break in occur right on the dyno... if you have an engine combo you know will be close to 60hp... due to the lack of ring seal you will see the first set of runs start with maybe 53 hp and then by the last run of the first set you will have seen it come up to 55+.... next set of runs will end at 57... next set 58... and so on until you get several sets of 10 runs where the power is stable and consitant...that's when you know you are done breaking in rings...
anyways...for those reasons i have used that break in metod very siccessfully for many many years....
the old hot rodder break in addage goes like this:
"break 'em in slow and they will always be slow, break 'em in fast and they will always be fast"
and those are the reason why....
i would have to say that the on the gas for several gears, then engine braking , then on it again.... seems pretty much like what you would do as regular riding on a motocross track... i'm sure it would work just as well...
