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there are tons of posts here on how to jet your carb based off certain mods, ive also seen many people say how lean they come from the factory.

i have bone stock 06 450er. right now the jetting is stock as well.would i benefit at all from going up to slighly higher jetting? what if removed the airlid ( or removed half of it). i am currently running the stock pipe.

also, ive heard these are notorious for a low end bog, and mine is no different. ive heard of few remedies for these but just looking for some more details on that. thanks guys.
 

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Just keep in mind your stock setting is a set ratio. More air without more fuel = lean mixture and vice versa for a rich mixture. You can see descent gains by getting an HRC jet kit(if below 3K' elevation) or any other jet kit and removing the lid with a stock exhaust. As mentioned before, you'll need an aftermarket exhaust to get the full benefit of jetting. It's all about how far you wanna go and the money you want to spend.
 

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Why the "bump" ?
Are you looking for a different answer other then the correct answers?
It simple, more air in, more fuel needed, and more exhaust flow is needed to get rid of the extra air and fuel, the ratio stays the same
Things like porting, better intakes, larger valves, match porting the manifold, larger cam, bored or larger carbs, all add more air flow.
Jetting in any given size carb controls the fuel mixture
Cams, porting, valve size, and exhaust control the exit of the air and fuel

The best exhaust in the world will only help as much and the intake system allows
Large jets will only cause a rich mixture if there isnt enough air
The best intake, and intake port cant flow more then the limits of the valves, carb, or exhaust
 

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One thing I always find funny is when people ask " how much power will I gain from ___"? You can give a guess but it all depends on the supporting parts.
Let's say you had a 04/05 and had your head ported by RE with plus 1 valves, kibble white springs, ran a 43.5 fcr, dasa exhaust, dasa intake, 97mm 13-1 big bore and a stock cam, you put it on a dyno and it made 42 hp. Stock it makes 33hp, what parts made you 9 hp? That's a lot of parts and money for 9 hp. Now you drop in a web 208/921 cam and it makes 60 hp. Did the cam make 18hp? Or did the cam make 8 over the stock cam but allow the rest of your parts to make 10 more hp? A build is only as strong as its weak link. Hoser this post wasn't for you, I know you know this stuff
 

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Why the "bump" ?
Are you looking for a different answer other then the correct answers?
It simple, more air in, more fuel needed, and more exhaust flow is needed to get rid of the extra air and fuel, the ratio stays the same
Things like porting, better intakes, larger valves, match porting the manifold, larger cam, bored or larger carbs, all add more air flow.
Jetting in any given size carb controls the fuel mixture
Cams, porting, valve size, and exhaust control the exit of the air and fuel

The best exhaust in the world will only help as much and the intake system allows
Large jets will only cause a rich mixture if there isnt enough air
The best intake, and intake port cant flow more then the limits of the valves, carb, or exhaust
Thanks hawk you explanation was more dumb friendly lol, im a noob here, I appreciate the help
 

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I would say any time but Im an old fart who now drives a can am x3 and just looks at his lonely quads in the corner of the shop, so I dont get on here nearly as much as I used to.
 

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If you can, remove lid, get bigger/better filter of your choice and a slip on at least. You will then be able to probably jet up to a 170-180 from stock 120ish. You will grin from ear to ear, it is a completely different machine with those simple mods I promise you. Biggest bang for the buck. Lid removal will probably not get you much other than a dirty filter. Like you said they are lean from factory so you could probably go up in jetting either way but I don't know where you might end up at with just a lid removal. Most of the big companies also have you move the needle, replace leak/pilot jets and adjust screw at same time. Follow their instructions because it works.(y)
 

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An 06+ Machine isn’t going to need a 180 main jet with the airbox lid removed and a slip on. Not to mention a slip on is pretty much worthless, don’t waste your money and just get a full system. And, a bigger filter is pointless on a stock machine.
 

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162-170 main tops for a mostly stock engine with open airbox and full/slip on for an 06+ machine
 

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It's always how funny it is to hear how huge gains are from people who dont dyno their machines, but a slip on makes more noise and more noise makes people think it's faster but a dyno doest care how much noise it makes. I remember going from a ESR exhaust and early HRC cam to a dasa and web cam. Gains were NOTHING till 8500 rpm then it made more till 9800 where it was making 5hp more, had I not dynoed it I would have never known it made more power except in a drag race. I had all the supporting parts too, intake, +1 RE head, bored fcr without that it would have been a waste of 800+ dollars
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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Wait Tod, are you saying that those ridiculously, stupidly loud Harleys aren’t fast??? Lol!

it’s also funny how so many people believe that by simply bolting a part onto their motor or quad that it’s going to be faster. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read about people doing an intake or exhaust but they never Jet it properly, so are you really making more power?
 

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And if you look most of the really loud harleys they are running a thunder header which isnt the top hp maker.

Remember buck naked saying that by hacking the end cap off his rossier it made 5 hp?

Or when king 370,501, 545, tested the DMC and it made less then the stock exhaust with HRC tip?

Some people have very well tuned and sensitive butt dynos
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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Haha! I don’t remember King’s test, but it doesn’t surprise me. . . . . .

It just goes to show that planning a good motor package, using quality dyno proven parts, and assembled properly goes a long way to making good power, not just ”power” you convince yourself you’re making because you just spent a bunch of money on crappy parts.
 

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I know it's a bit late to the party, but I actually was curious about improving the stock jetting just like the OP. Unfortunately, some of the places that we ride are noise restricted. OEM airbox lid and exhaust required.

The machine in question is an all stock 2006. We plan on adding an R&D power bowl and flex jet, NCVQ needle, and perhaps going to a 125-130 main because the NCVQ is a little leaner of a needle. The goal is to retain the stock appearance and sound levels, and to have the best possible driveability and power for what it is. We're up around 700 feet elevation.

Are we on the right track? Any suggestions from the OG's around here? Thanks everyone.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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I know it's a bit late to the party, but I actually was curious about improving the stock jetting just like the OP. Unfortunately, some of the places that we ride are noise restricted. OEM airbox lid and exhaust required.

The machine in question is an all stock 2006. We plan on adding an R&D power bowl and flex jet, NCVQ needle, and perhaps going to a 125-130 main because the NCVQ is a little leaner of a needle. The goal is to retain the stock appearance and sound levels, and to have the best possible driveability and power for what it is. We're up around 700 feet elevation.

Are we on the right track? Any suggestions from the OG's around here? Thanks everyone.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
WHY??? The best jetting for a stock machine is stock jetting. Changing jets cor more air and fuel when your airbox wont allow more in and you exhaust wont allow more out is a waste of time, money, and effort. Now there is a chance that if you were to jet it on a dyno with a af meter you "might" find a lean or rich spot I. The stock jetting and take care of that and maybe make one more hp, ut that is way to much time, money and effort
 

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WHY??? The best jetting for a stock machine is stock jetting. Changing jets cor more air and fuel when your airbox wont allow more in and you exhaust wont allow more out is a waste of time, money, and effort. Now there is a chance that if you were to jet it on a dyno with a af meter you "might" find a lean or rich spot I. The stock jetting and take care of that and maybe make one more hp, ut that is way to much time, money and effort
It already had been jetted for a full exhaust, quite poorly in my opinion, and I was thinking that instead of searching for a non adjustable needle that maybe I could get it a little more spot on with a different adjustable one. I got the power bowl for next to nothing, so I figured I could play with the accelerator pump squirt to get the bog fixed.

Just trying to get the most out of my corked machine because it absolutely has to stay that way unfortunately. Thank you for the feedback, hawk, I really appreciate it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
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