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Then you can build my DIY DVA adapter, cost a few bucks to make or find a peak hold multimeter you need to check the stator peak output and the CDI peak output
Bought one, waiting for it to show up in mail.

I really do appreciate all your help. This is the 1st bike I couldn't figure out on my own.

Just finished new top end on kfx700, that was a piece of cake compared to this. I guess I'm green not knowing this bike and its safety's.
 

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So I got it running. Jumped the green connector. Now is it OK to leave that jumped? I'm guessing it is.

Thank you again! You sir are a God send :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Haha thanks, glad you found this out without spending too much money.
You can either cut and splice the thumb throttle switch wires, or replace the throttle switch itself.
 

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I got a riddle for ya. How would you wire in a capacitor so a 2006+ converted to kick start with a race cut harness (sans battery) would start with the stock cdi. they will run with an uncut harness on stock cdi. But as soon as you cut them you need a dynatec which has the internal capacitor. I tried wiring in a capacitor with no luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just get a capacitor for a R and hook it up to the red wire circuit to ground.
But this won't help it to fire it up, this is to get DC for the fan.

To run, you need to short the Pink Black and Green Red to ground, otherwise it's no go, easy to overlook
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Of course it's not running, for the reason stated above, 2 missing wires in the 4P connector are missing and should be grounded, on top of that the infamous green wire is still there and will rev to stock redline.
 

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Of course it's not running, for the reason stated above, 2 missing wires in the 4P connector are missing and should be grounded, on top of that the infamous green wire is still there and will rev to stock redline.
Awesome. Thankyou. I will try that. Reason green wire is there is because rev limiter/launch rpm is set in the dyna (wether or not it needs to be there i am not sure) I will deff try this on my other 06 that uses stock cdi tho!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
What if a ER pull starts but no spark E starting

Well we learn stuff every day, I remember some folks that was getting stumped by having the quad in a mint running state, loosing spark while cranking, but getting it back with the kicker or pull starting, quad runs fine but there's no way in heIl the E starts even though it's cranking fine.
Well I got one, tried everything I know, we had a race cut harness that I made myself, tested everything, pulse gen, stator ignition coils peak values, checked all pinout, swapped stator, CDI. We had a damaged engine and an upcoming race, so I had to put a ER engine in a ER quad racecut to R setup that had all the E start wires removed. I mounted a solenoid unit with a starting switch by the grab bar mount, it ran as a separate system. But anytime cranking it will kill the spark.

The most likely scenario is that the starter makes so much electomagnetic noise that it covers the Pulse generator output and make false triggers that makes no sense to the CDI and it holds the spark. I can see that the CDI is ready to fire by the peak volts of the kill wire (black/white) to ground at 250V, but 0,2 V peak at the coil input.
So in an absolute last move I have hooked up the 12V system of the race cut harness (12V and ground) to the battery and added an ON/OFF switch and bam it fired right up in a quater turn.
So it seem that for the ER the 12V black wire of the 4P connector and of course the CDI ground continuity (not the fan green) is of prime importance while starting, I think it's a ground reference to cancel the noise that can get in the crank position sensor (pulse gen) circuit
 

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Fantastic info but I still need some help... I have a 05 450r riding for about 10 minutes then dies like I turned off the key. I tested the peak voltage at the coil black/yellow wire and got 0V. I swapped key switch with a known good and still nothing. How do I test the cut off switch on the left handlebar? Also just for S & G’s I did all the electrical test from the manual. I did end up testing the 3 yellow wires at the rectifier connector and only get continuity on 2 out of the 3 yellow wires. Manual doesn’t say what to do if there’s an open circuit on those yellow wires for testing the generator coil line. Any help on testing or confirming the cut off switch and also what has failed if there’s an open circuit in 1 of those 3 yellow wires at the rectifier connector? Also on a side note what is the “infamous green wire”?
 
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