Honda TRX 450R banner

Crank bearing removal from crank / worn case replacement

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  FoxValley450 
#1 ·
I am in need of a new left case because upon replacing the left crank bearing it dropped right in. I have been told the steel insert in the case can be replaced. Has anyone had experience with a machine shop doing this? Or is the price in doing so about similar to a new or a good used case?
 
#3 ·
I never even heard of a Steel Insert to be honest. I for sure would suggest getting the new Case half.... or at least one that is not worn out to get you by, we have a lot of cores that had nothing wrong with them so It's Very possible we may have something laying around. I will look around for you when I get in to work tomorrow, If you would like to call Racers Edge and ask to talk to me Ryan W (around 1:30pm or 2:00pm Arizona Time) @ (520) 631-0797 ask to talk to me and I will tell you weather or not if I found a good L, Case around if we do I'll hand you over to talk to my boss about price and shipping.



Brand new they run about $330.00 bucks unfortunately it is a lot and on top of that you will also need to by a few extra small bearings for it too which will for sure set you in about the $450.00+ range.... If you do buy it brand new I'll list some Part Numbers below for you for the bearings you would need to also buy.

1 of L, Case Half Part # 11200-HP1-670
2 of Clutch Lifter Shaft Bearings 91101-PZ9-000
2 of Oil Pump Bearings 91006-HA0-003
1 of Transmission Output Shaft 91006-HP1-671
 
#5 ·
Update.

We do have a god used L Crank case I checked in the shop. Only thing wrong with it is where the Chain gard bolts on those 2 bolt mounts are broken off, however the L Crank bearing does has a nice and Tight Fit.
Thanks for getting back to me with all this information. I wish the people on Facebook would be as helpful…. I bought a “good” used case and am now needing to replace all the other bearings as well. I guess everyone’s definition of good to go can be quite different.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Now to removing the crank bearing off the crank, I used a bearing separator from harbor freight. Grinded it down to have a flatter surface to get underneath the bearing. Without using a puller i just continued to wedge the separator between the crank and bearing. The picture attached is the setup used.
Did this method stress the crank unevenly? Is the crank still good to use? I know the common method is to use a puller once the separator is clamped tight behind the bearing. Any thoughts or past experiences?
Camera lens Reflex camera Camera accessory Lens Film camera

Gas Wood Auto part Metal Bicycle part
 
#7 ·
Looks like you're doing just like how I would do it.

If you look on that Puller there are 2 threaded spots you can thread a couple of bolts into, do that and tighten then evenly to remove the bearing it will slowly pull the bearing off till it comes off completely.

When installing the New Bearing - Very First thing I do is throw the crank and bearings into a plastic baggie then toss them it into the Freezer for a few hours or even over night is the best results.... the longer the crank and bearings freeze the more working time you have (since it's deeply frozen)

Now once the Bearings are frozen (say it's the next day or a few hours Later) start warming up the cases where the bearings go in, just using heat gun or small blow torch is all you need or you can even toss the cases into the oven at 300F for 15 minutes, but really all you really need to just need to warm up the races where the bearings go into (warm it up till it is hot enough to melt a crayon or candle wax if you use a torch or heat gun, then grab your frozen bearing out of the Freezer and they will usually just drop right in. Sometimes you might need to tap the bearings in with an X pattern to make them seat... you will know when the bearings seat because it will make a certain sound you will know it when you hear it. Now if you succeeded to this point.


Installing the Crank - (TIP-- Make sure to have a couple of 4x4 wood blocks to lay the Left case on so that when the crank goes in it will not hit the work bench or table) So now that you have something that you can lay your Pre Heated left case on and then take the frozen crank (Stator Side of the crank Towards the left bearing!) and it will drop right in with a satisfying metallic clunk of the center race and crank seating. Don't try and pull it back up or out once the crank is in because you will have to re freeze and re heat the cases if you do. Just wait a few minutes for the crank and bearing to acclimate (Become the same temp) then they will be a "pressed Fit".


The right side bearing should just have a Sleeve or a Collar that is already on it, if it's the removable collar just make sure to slip it onto the Right side of the Crank and made sure the Ridge Side of the sleeve is up against the Crank, if you have the Collar it will not be removable. Now you can install your Oil Pump "Drive Shaft" then, Oil Pump, Center Case Gasket and then the right side Case with each 8MM bolt being tightened with 7ft lbs
 
#8 ·
Oh and if you need to remove the Old Right Crank Bearing "one that has the sleeve for the center Race" you can use a large socket or something and usually can just hammer it out you will need to have the Seal Removed to get a good size socket on it, don't be freaked out if some of the rollers fall out during the removal process.
 
#9 · (Edited)
" If you look on that Puller there are 2 threaded spots you can thread a couple of bolts into, do that and tighten then evenly to remove the bearing it will slowly pull the bearing off till it comes off completely. "

This is the part I did not do. I did not have a puller at the moment so I just continued tightening the bearing separator along with applying heat to the bearing inner race until the bearing jumped, creating a few mm gap from where it started. After this "pop" the bearing continued moving off the crank much easier. I was just hoping the stress created initially from forcing the separator between the crank and bearing didn't flex the crank and throw off the balance of it in someway.

Thanks for all the advice on reassembly, your process is just what I had planned on doing, except I planned to drop the bearing onto the crank first, although I'm sure these steps are interchangeable.

One addition question, I am replacing the counter balance shaft bearing in the left side of the case and upon installation it is not a press fit, just drops in. I know it is retained with the c-clip but I was going to use some bearing retainer (green Loctite) to hopefully hold the outer race to the case, in addition to scoring the outer bearing race or the case itself. Is this bearing supposed to be press fit?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top