[clutch]

Ok guys....what is everyone using for coolant?

So far my bike has the stock coolant mixture in it. I have investigated the options of Engine Ice and Redline Water Wetter. Living in the north I realize that I will have to change it again in a month or two but last weekend my bike got HOT!!
The fan came on and I got the temp light a couple of times (103 degrees and slow riding conditions).

I am thinking for the next month of running distilled/deionized water and Redline additive.

Any other opinions from you guys?

Thanks!

 

[TRX450rlude]

Originally posted by clutch@Jul 21 2004, 10:22 PM
Ok guys....what is everyone using for coolant?

So far my bike has the stock coolant mixture in it.  I have investigated the options of Engine Ice and Redline Water Wetter.  Living in the north I realize that I will have to change it again in a month or two but last weekend my bike got HOT!!
The fan came on and I got the temp light a couple of times (103 degrees and slow riding conditions). 

I am thinking for the next month of running distilled/deionized water and Redline additive.

Any other opinions from you guys?

Thanks!

in that case I think either you are running lean, low on oil, or low on antifreeze...I dont think your bike should have ever turned the red light on....I ride hard in that temp I my fan will only come on while idleing....I would double check your jetting if you have changed it.

 

[TRX450rlude]

Originally posted by desert_450r@Jul 21 2004, 10:33 PM
I would not run deionized water ... Distilled fine ... One of the jobs I have at work is running and maintaning the DI facility ... Run distilled water ... Or at worst, RO ... 

And water wetter is cool in cars, but I am not sure if it would conflict with our setup ... I would call Redline ... I am considering this too, but haven't gotten a chance to call them yet on it ...

did I miss something....he said he has the factory coolant in it....what does that have to do with water.

 

[clutch]

I am actually running fat on the jetting.

I could have easily gone down 2 sizes on the main and still felt comfortable. I have the HRC kit installed with a 188 main jet (I would have to check my notes to be sure). No other mods other than a EHS racing airbox lid.

I am also running 50/50 blend of 110 octane and 93 octane gas. Not for any other reason than the cooler burn. I know that I am giving up power but I am trying to get the heat down.

The riding conditons consisted of 5th gear drag races in the sand and then some putzin around...

 

[TrX450rKiD]

Originally posted by clutch@Jul 21 2004, 11:22 PM
I am thinking for the next month of running distilled/deionized water and Redline additive.

Any other opinions from you guys?

Thanks!

 

[TRX450rlude]

Originally posted by TrX450rKiD+Jul 21 2004, 10:37 PM-->

<!--QuoteBegin-clutch

@Jul 21 2004, 11:22 PM
I am thinking for the next month of running distilled/deionized water and Redline additive.

Any other opinions from you guys?

Thanks!

[/b]

you hijacking another thread man.... :lol:

 

[TRX450rlude]

Originally posted by desert_450r@Jul 21 2004, 11:02 PM
Lude, He said:

QUOTE

I am thinking for the next month of running distilled/deionized water and Redline additive.

----------------------

Clutch,

Actually, there's a curve to your thinking ... Running TO MUCH octane for your compression ration can actually INCREASE combustion temps ... Higher Octane Value = Higher BTU value as a result ...

The idea is if you have for example 11:1 compression and at a certain conditon and you have pre-ignition OR worse, detonation, that can create excess heat ... Pre-ignition can not always be audibly heard BTW ... So if you are pre-ignitiong, higher octane will bring the motor back into "time" whereas the explosion happens at the right time ...

If you run too much octane with the 11:1, it can actually be too resistant to ignition and the compression needed is not there to "pre-heat" the mix ... This can cause delayed combustion which will cause excess heat generation also ... (namely on the exhaust side if the head)

One of the by-products of combustion is heat and if the heat of the power stroke happens late, it is not happening within the intended timing of the motor, and the rate of cooling within the combustion chamber is altered ...

In addition, depending on the exotic fuel's additives, more energy per stroke can be part of the fuel's characteristic and this would compound the problem ... There are many different formulations of race gas and can be very different ...

Unfortunately more is not ALWAYS better with octane ... At least not in 4 Strokes ... I would run 92 pump octane, a lead-like additive for your valves, and keep a Gallon of Zylene or Toulene with you to bump the octane if you need to ... I run 10% of either with 91 octane in the hot months ... 10% of either of those should give you about 2-2.5 true octane points (not tenths like the sham store adds give you) ... Here's a simple formula added to simple 92 octane pump gas:

Toulene
10% = 94.2
20% = 96.4
30% = 98.6
--------------
Xylene
10% = 94.5
20% = 97.0
30% = 99.5 [/b][/quote]
dez. I think you know too much.....you are full of info....I admire that.

 

[TrX450rKiD]

Originally posted by desert_450r@Jul 22 2004, 12:02 AM
Lude, He said:

QUOTE

I am thinking for the next month of running distilled/deionized water and Redline additive.

----------------------

Clutch,

Actually, there's a curve to your thinking ... Running TO MUCH octane for your compression ratio can actually INCREASE combustion temps ... Higher Octane Value = Higher BTU value as a result ...

The idea is if you have for example 11:1 compression and at a certain conditon and you have pre-ignition OR worse, detonation, that can create excess heat ... Pre-ignition can not always be audibly heard BTW ... So if you are pre-ignitiong, higher octane will bring the motor back into "time" whereas the explosion happens at the right time ...

If you run too much octane with the 11:1, it can actually be too resistant to ignition and the compression needed is not there to "pre-heat" the mix ... This can cause delayed combustion which will cause excess heat generation also ... (namely on the exhaust side if the head)

One of the by-products of combustion is heat and if the heat of the power stroke happens late, it is not happening within the intended timing of the motor, and the rate of cooling within the combustion chamber is altered ...

In addition, depending on the exotic fuel's additives, more energy per stroke can be part of the fuel's characteristic and this would compound the problem ... There are many different formulations of race gas and can be very different ...

Unfortunately more is not ALWAYS better with octane ... At least not in 4 Strokes ... I would run 92 pump octane, a lead-like additive for your valves, and keep a Gallon of Zylene or Toulene with you to bump the octane if you need to ... I run 10% of either with 91 octane in the hot months ... 10% of either of those should give you about 2-2.5 true octane points (not tenths like the sham store adds give you) ... Here's a simple formula added to simple 92 octane pump gas:

Toulene
10% = 94.2
20% = 96.4
30% = 98.6
--------------
Xylene
10% = 94.5
20% = 97.0
30% = 99.5 [/b][/quote]

x 1000000000

 

[clutch]

AAAHHH...finally a man who is a techno geek when it comes to motors!!!

I get so SICK of the saying that "if you run race gas you'll blow your motor from the extra power"!!!!!

Anyone who says this to me is asked what the R/M on a gas pump means. Most people are totally stumped!

You have a very good point with the gas theory. I have been working under the simple theory that the higher the octane the lower the BTU content of the gas. I had not taken into consideration the fact that the flame front might be "late" and moving into the exhaust.

I am not prone to adding other "solvents" to raise the octane number of fuel. I realize that this is a legitimate method of getting to the end number for octane but I work in a refining type industry (veg oil) and know that ANY type of fuel/additive will have its varients but still pass the QC.

I agree with your fuel theory of octane concerning that you should only run a high as you need but I also race (in private of course!) minibikes (XR80) and heat soak is a MAJOR issue. I have run the 50/50 blend with good results for the last several years. The reason being that all the people I ride with are maxed out on the main jet sizes that are offered for the "carbs" that these little guys run.

I am sure that some of the problem with the heat is the extreme lean pilot condition that Honda send out with this bike to keep the greens happy.

I would like to discuss this at length with you if possible on this board...

Thanks for the brain pick!!!!!

ps...I will try a straight 93 Amoco gold this weekend and check for any diff.

 

[86atc250r]

Also, mix in a clean glass or metal container ... Some plastics are not compatible with these strong solvents and you'll dump molten plastic into your tank and possibly gunk-up your carb ...[/b]

Hmmm..... Sounds like experience speaking

 

[joe1l]

(103 degrees and slow riding conditions).[/b]

I know from my 2 stroke that this is not a good combination. Remember the faster you go, the more air that passes your radiator, cooling the water. Next, a 50/50 blend of water and coolant is not optimal for heat conditions. Antifreeze does not keep your temps down. Try running 75% water 15%antifreeze and 10%water wetter, this will keep your temps down quite a bit. Next, I realize that you were running some race fuel, this will change your jetting a bit, you may have to run a larger main because of the added race fuel, but as desert mentioned already, you are not getting any added bonuses from running it on a motor that doesn't need it.