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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I was just wondering if you could help me out a bit here with my 450r I bought blown up. It has a big bore kit with a stage three HC cam and I believe it had a HR stroker crank. the bearings are ok but i'm replacing them anyway (with the ones that came with crank not OEM). I've read that the crank seems to vibrate with a big bore or sumn without being balanced. Just wondering how i'd go about balancing it or if I even have to get it balanced. This crank seized up from several metal shavings in it not sure how that comes in to play if it was off balance? Also if this means anything, the oil filter was pretty much coated in shavings. Any help would be great thanks!
 

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Truck Yea
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you REALLY should replace the bearings with OEM. hot rod bearings are junk
 
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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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Agreed. And balancing is always a good idea, especially with a HR crank. Just be prepared for the fact that balancing/truing/welding is going to cost you about as much as you paid for the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Agreed. And balancing is always a good idea, especially with a HR crank. Just be prepared for the fact that balancing/truing/welding is going to cost you about as much as you paid for the crank.
So would it be absolutely necessary to balance or would it do without? And how long of run time would i have without balancing?
 

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Cane Rider!
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The crank balancing comes down to, how well is the HR crank (that you just purchased) balanced from the Chinese factory. It’s like what’s behind door #1. Hard telling, not knowing. I have ran several of the +3 HR strokers. Some balanced by Crankworks. They do great work. And some unbalanced. The balanced ones performed very well, as expected. But the unbalanced ones performed great as well. If you have the money and time, go for the balancing. It will make you sleep better at night. Personally, I would throw the unbalanced HR crank in my engine in a heart beat and cross my fingers it doesn’t vibrate my crowns lose. 🤪More importantly, as stated above, use the OEM Honda crank bearings. Good luck with your decision.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The crank balancing comes down to, how well is the HR crank (that you just purchased) balanced from the Chinese factory. It’s like what’s behind door #1. Hard telling, not knowing. I have ran several of the +3 HR strokers. Some balanced by Crankworks. They do great work. And some unbalanced. The balanced ones performed very well, as expected. But the unbalanced ones performed great as well. If you have the money and time, go for the balancing. It will make you sleep better at night. Personally, I would throw the unbalanced HR crank in my engine in a heart beat and cross my fingers it doesn’t vibrate my crowns lose. 🤪More importantly, as stated above, use the OEM Honda crank bearings. Good luck with your decision.
Ok I guess ill toss er in. I did order oem bearings as well cuz I did see that the hr ones don't perform well. And it won't have any altercation with my cam or big bore kit?
 

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Make sure that you follow the proper procedure of the crank install! I work at RE and I see it all he time where a crank was not installed correctly and it fails again with in a few months after installing. Freeze the crank heat the collar and slide it on. I always make sure that the "inner Collar" can still spin freely with about .003" of play so it keeps the crank f rom ever walking over.
152171
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea I definitely did not do that so I might be saving for another rebuild. also the left side case bearing basically just dropped in didn't need to press or anything though it doesn't spin or wiggle while set in. The inner spins fine when crank is placed in. Another thing i adjusted my decompression arm to .017 like ig the manuel states kicked it over once started right up with choke. Tried starting again and no go. Is there any easier way to kick it over anything to adjust or is there like a sweet spot these kickers like?
 

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Making HP ain’t free. . .
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Which part did you not do?

Sometimes a case that’s been rebuilt and had a lot of rebuilds the left bearing can get loose, but just falling in if both are at room might be a cause for concern.

When you say “no go” when you tried kicking it again, do you mean it wouldn’t start or you couldn’t kick it over? If you have the correct valve lash set and add .006” to your exhaust clearance for your decompressor, you should be able to kick and start it sitting down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Which part did you not do?

Sometimes a case that’s been rebuilt and had a lot of rebuilds the left bearing can get loose, but just falling in if both are at room might be a cause for concern.

When you say “no go” when you tried kicking it again, do you mean it wouldn’t start or you couldn’t kick it over? If you have the correct valve lash set and add .006” to your exhaust clearance for your decompressor, you should be able to kick and start it sitting down.
I did not do the part where you freeze the bearings. The left case wasn't difficult to set the bearing in but not exactly loose. By no go I meant it wouldn't start. I messed with the decomp and put it at .017. After a bit I kicked it with throttle and it would start up with no choke. Now I think its a carb problem the guy said he put a new jet kit in it and when I was ridin around in first it was kinda just sputtering. I've messed with the a/f screw the idle screw. The whole carb every whole has been cleaned
 
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