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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's your opinion on running Castrol TWS 10w-60 motor oil in the engine side.
I work for a BMW dealership and that is what all the high performance M3 and M5
use. Do you think it is to thick.
 

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Where are you at DEZ? We have somebody with an oil question!!!!
I run the Mobil 1 red cap now, seems to be very good.
 

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I believe your viscosity(thickness) rating is designated by the "10W" not the 60 the 60 is tempetature range....I think
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe "w" stands for winter. I think 10 means it pours and acts like a 10 weight
but protects like a 60 weight. I could be wrong though, that is why I asked if it might be to thick considering nobody has mention running that weight of oil.
 

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From what I have always known it is 40 weight when cold and 10 when warmed up. I also could be wrong. That is why when your motor is cold it is so thick and it is like water after it is warmed up.
 

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I'm running Motul 5W-50 full synthetic, always have, and never had a problem (and these are XC racing conditions)
 

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When an oil is recommended by the manufacturer, they go to great lengths to figure what lives best in a certain engine under a certain application ...[/b]
I'm not sure that's always the case - I always felt that the recommendations were on the light side for the 400EX, being an air cooled engine that runs high oil temps.

The chart in the owner's manual always looked pretty generic to me - pretty much the same as any liquid cooled automotive engine.

Castrol oil --- in the past Castrol has had a habit of calling their hydrocracked mineral oils "Synthetic" - I would not guess that this oil is any different without seeing more data on it.

Another thing to consider is that with a spread like 10w60 and the likelihood of it not being a "real" synthetic - it is likely using VI improver to get that spread. This means the oil will break down faster than a competitive oil like Mobil1 15w50 that does not use any VI improver to get it's spread.
 

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Hey Desert, I didnt fully understand your last post, can you elaborate? J/K
VERY good post.
 

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hey dez have what do you think about runnin lucas motor oil(as an addative)
 

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thanks :)
 

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Originally posted by Jumbo747+Aug 2 2004, 12:09 PM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-Jumbo747
@Aug 1 2004, 04:08 PM
so switching to M1 after 4 oil changes is bad?
[/b]
From what I have always heard you shouldnt switch to synthetic untill your motor is fully broke in. On cars I switch over on the first oil change at 3k miles since a 6 or 8 cylinder motor is considered broken in after 500 miles but in fact with todays piston rings they have shown to be broken after only about 100 miles. On ATV's and bikes I have heard from dez and others that you shouldnt switch untill you get about 100 miles or so on them but I just switched over on the first oil change at about 5 hours only because I believe that as fast as we are turning these motors 10k rpms and even a little more and as much as we work the throttle constantly changing RPM's I believe the motor is fully broke in, in as little as 20-30 miles or 1 to 2 tanks of fuel. I could very well be wrong and Im sure dez will disagree with me but this is my opinion on the topic. On the same note I myself have yet to see a motor that had issues even being broke in on synthetic. I have had quite a few friends that have built nitrous motors for mustangs and camaros pushing 500hp off the bottle and a couple have broke them in on Mobile 1 and Royal Purple and none of them had any problems with the rings not seating properly. Of course by that same way of thinking they also believe to break the motor in the way you plan on driving it and many if not all of them have sprayed a 200-300 shot of nitrous on the first drive out on the street with less that 5 miles on the motor, lol. Once again I believe with todays rings there is little to no need for a long drawn out break in period but then again, what do I know. B)
 

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As much as I hate to admit it, I tend to agree. Im sure someone will pop in with a bunch of technical mumbo jumbo that could very well prove me wrong but I have to see anything with my own eyes that says differently.
 

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so you think im safe for a long time because I ran that gn4 stuff in it for like 4 tanks of gas & 4 oil changes & filter changes & then I switched to MB1 synthetic..sorry if I keep asking the question but I cant ully understand what you type
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The castrol 10w-60 syn is made in europe but I have decided not to run it.
desert what is your opinion on quality of amsoil or lucas? I think i am going
to run 10w-40 amsoil which i am sure is full synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So desert you think 10w-40 amsoil is what i should run vis. wise? mc only does
that mean motorcycle only?
 
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