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Honda TRX450R Forums: Honda TRX 450R Forum > 450R Performance and Mods. > Engine > Engine Tech FAQ
hasteranger
Is your starter whirring and not catching? If so, the problem is likely your starter clutch. Honda issued a service bulletin regarding this and actually initiated a replacement campaign, but unfortunately it expired last year. The good thing is that the parts aren't too expensive and the job is not too difficult to attempt yourself. I just did mine, and wanted to take some pictures to help others have an idea of what is involved in performing the job. It took me about 4 hours including a few setbacks (I broke a spring retaining bolt off and was not sure how to align the final clutch disc and needed to refer to the .org for assistance).

The majority of text is from .org members Pgreenlaw and 450rr. Please note that the service manual calls for a different procedure with more steps and special Honda tools (though this worked perfectly for me). Please read the disclaimer at the bottom before proceeding.

1). Ensure that you have all the correct parts. The PN for the full kit with new starter gear. starter clutch, roller bearing, and crank nut retainer is Honda PN: 06220-HP1-306. It is around $112-$140. You may be able to get by just replacing the starter clutch itself, but the current bulletin directs dealers to install the full kit to alleviate starter woes. You will need a right side case cover gasket, Honda PN: 11394-HP1-600, which goes for around $17-$23. You will also need a quart/liter of gear oil (or engine oil, whichever you fill your transmission with. I use Honda gear oil), and coolant (if you are careful you can store what you have in your radiator in a clean container and reuse it).



2). Run the bike for 2-3 minutes to warm the trans fluid. Drain coolant and transmission fluid. Drain the coolant at the lower radiator hose, tipping bike towards the pump side to get all the coolant out so it doesn't leak out later. The transmission drain bolt on the 06 and up models is under the drive sprocket behind the shifter. You will need to remove the brake lever which is a single allen bolt at the base of the lever. I found it much easier to work on after removing the header pipe on my yoshi exhaust, which was held on with only two springs.

3). Remove entire right side outer case using the 8mm bolts around the outside. There is no need to remove clutch cover or water pump cover. Keep track of where the bolts go because there are like 4 or 5 different size bolts that must go in different length holes. If you are careful you can leave them in the holes as you remove the cover. As you pull the cover off, two metal tubes (one with an O ring) will probably come off with it. Don't lose these. The long skinny one holds the small gear in right above the starter. The short one with an O ring goes in a recess above the water pump. Go ahead and put them back in their holes so they don't get lost. Thoroughly clean the sealing area, being sure to scrape all the old gasket material off.
hasteranger
4). Remove 6 10mm bolts from clutch pressure plate. Remove springs, pressure plate, and the entire clutch pack and set aside. Be careful not to lose the small washer from the inside. Remove the long rod with bearings on the end. Be careful not to loose the bearings.




5). Un stake the lock washer from around the big 1 1/16th" nut inside the clutch inner basket and remove the nut. (it's a PITA without a clutch holding tool or an impact wrench) Remove inner clutch basket and set aside.

hasteranger
6). Take a gear holding tool (I use a penny) and jam the gears between the outer clutch basket and the crank drive gear and remove that bolt and thick washer. (it's at 80+ lbf-ft)


7). Remove outer clutch basket and set aside. There is a sleeve that sits on the shaft and a bearing that seperates the sleeve from the outerclutch basket. To keep them from getting lost or dirty, if they come off with the outer clutch basket you may want to put them both back on the shaft.


8). Now remove the crank driven gear and the old starter clutch and starter driven gear as one unit. DON'T REMOVE THE BALANCER DRIVE GEAR (behind the crank driven gear)!!! If you do, it is keyed and must be timed with the balancer shaft.



hasteranger
9). Remove the roller bearing from between the old starter clutch and starter gear if you did not purchase a new one and install it into the new starter clutch/starter gear assembly.




10). Install the starter clutch/gear assembly onto the end of the crank shaft. (it is keyed so that the flat spot matches up with the dot. Install the crank drive gear onto the crankshaft and install the thick washer and bolt. (THAT gear is also keyed with the flat spot).


11). Install the sleeve and bearing with the outer clutch basket and onto the main shaft. Jam the crank gear again and outer clutch basket gear and tighten the 17mm bolt to 80 ft/lbs. (see earlier picture)

hasteranger
12). Install the big flat washer over the shaft, install the clutch inner basket and lock washer and then the nut. Tighten that nut to 80 lbf ft and bend the tabs of the lock washer up to lock the nut in place.




13). Reinstall clutch fibers/steels in the order they came off in, setting the ears of the last clutch plate in the shallow notch in the basket. Note in the picture I did not have the last plate installed in the shallow notch. The arrow points towards the notch the ears on the plate should be in.




14.) Install the long rod, put the bearings back over the end of it, and put the small washer back over the bearings. Install the pressure plate and 6 springs/bolts. Torque pressure plate bolts to 9 lbf ft. DO NOT OVERTORQUE.

15.) Install new outer case gasket and install outer case, taking care to properly line up the driveshaft for the water pump (don't force the cover on, if there is resistance take if off and find out why). Reattach the coolant hoses and fill radiator with coolant. Loosen the 10mm bolt below the giant allen head bolt and then pour your gear oil in through the oil fill hole at the top of the case until it dribbles out the hole. Realistically, if the gear oil is cold, its going to be too thick to dribble. so you can take out the giant allen head bolt and keep an eye on the level. Once you fill it about even with the hole, replace the header pipe (if remover) and brake lever, start the bike up and get it warm and move it around in gear and check the level again. Bleed the cooling system.


And as always, if anyone has anything else to add it is entirely likely I may have overlooked something so feel free to submit corrections.



DISCLAIMER:
This guide is designed for informational purposes to individuals properly trained in servicing ATVs only. This member is not responsible for any injuries or accidents or any resulting loss of or damage to life, persons, or property as a result of attempting any steps depicted herein. Use proper safety equipment, including proper attire, gloves, and eye protection at all times. Your reading of this post constitutes acceptance of these terms.
**FastrThnYou**
so far so good! great write up thanks!!
Pgreenlaw
I feel honored...

http://www.trx450r.org/forum/index.php?act...&pid=663501

QUOTE(Pgreenlaw @ Mar 23 2009, 08:03 PM) *
Make sure you have all your parts. Install the one way bearing into the outer race. Make sure the BLUE dot on the bearing is pointed OUTWARD!!! Make sure you have a NEW case gasket. Pour some new transmission fluid into the outer clutch to prevent dry initial start.

Drain coolant and transmission fluid.

Remove entire right side outer case. (no need to remove clutch cover or water pump cover) Keep track of where the bolts go cause there are like 4 or 5 different size bolts)

Remove 6 10mm bolts from clutch pressure plate. Remove springs, pressure plate, and the entire clutch pack and set aside.

Un stake the lock washer from around the big nut inside the clutch inner basket and remove the nut. (it's a PITA without a clutch holding tool or an impact wrench) Remove inner clutch basket and set aside.

Take a gear holding tool (I use a penny) and jam the gears between the outer clutch basket and the crank drive gear and remove that bolt and thick washer. (it's at 80+ lbf-ft)

Remove outer clutch basket (and bearing) and set aside. Now remove the crank driven gear and the old starter clutch and starter driven gear as one unit. DON'T REMOVE THE BALANCER DRIVE GEAR!!! If you do, it is keyed and must be timed with the balancer shaft.

Remove the roller bearing from between the old starter clutch and starter gear if you did not purchase a new one and install it into the new starter clutch/starter gear assembly. Install that assembly onto the end of the crank shaft. (it is keyed)

Install the crank drive gear onto the crankshaft and install the thick washer and bolt. (THAT gear is also keyed)

Install the outer clutch basket and roller bearing onto the main shaft. Jam the crank gear and outer clutch basket gear and tighten the bolt to 80 lbf ft.

Install the clutch inner basket and lock washer and then the nut. Tighten that nut to 80 lbf ft and bend the tabs of the lock washer up to lock the nut in place.

Reinstall clutch fibers/steels and install the pressure plate and 6 springs/bolts. Torque pressure plate bolts to 9 lbf ft.

Install new outer case gasket and install outer case. Fill with transmission fluid and coolant and go.



Good write up, man.
hasteranger
lol you and 450rr (he was the one who did the first write up I found) both helped out a lot with me getting mine done as far an answering questions. I guess I thought he had posted that. sorry, I will add your name!
Pgreenlaw
I feel important!!
hasteranger
We all like to see our name up in lights... but seriously the writeup guided me right through the install, whereas the service manual had me scratching my head, so to me, you ARE important.
thecyberbird
QUOTE(Pgreenlaw @ Apr 2 2009, 08:24 AM) *
I feel honored...

http://www.trx450r.org/forum/index.php?act...&pid=663501

QUOTE(Pgreenlaw @ Mar 23 2009, 08:03 PM) *
Make sure you have all your parts. Install the one way bearing into the outer race. Make sure the BLUE dot on the bearing is pointed OUTWARD!!! Make sure you have a NEW case gasket. Pour some new transmission fluid into the outer clutch to prevent dry initial start.

Drain coolant and transmission fluid.

Remove entire right side outer case. (no need to remove clutch cover or water pump cover) Keep track of where the bolts go cause there are like 4 or 5 different size bolts)

Remove 6 10mm bolts from clutch pressure plate. Remove springs, pressure plate, and the entire clutch pack and set aside.

Un stake the lock washer from around the big nut inside the clutch inner basket and remove the nut. (it's a PITA without a clutch holding tool or an impact wrench) Remove inner clutch basket and set aside.

Take a gear holding tool (I use a penny) and jam the gears between the outer clutch basket and the crank drive gear and remove that bolt and thick washer. (it's at 80+ lbf-ft)

Remove outer clutch basket (and bearing) and set aside. Now remove the crank driven gear and the old starter clutch and starter driven gear as one unit. DON'T REMOVE THE BALANCER DRIVE GEAR!!! If you do, it is keyed and must be timed with the balancer shaft.

Remove the roller bearing from between the old starter clutch and starter gear if you did not purchase a new one and install it into the new starter clutch/starter gear assembly. Install that assembly onto the end of the crank shaft. (it is keyed)

Install the crank drive gear onto the crankshaft and install the thick washer and bolt. (THAT gear is also keyed)

Install the outer clutch basket and roller bearing onto the main shaft. Jam the crank gear and outer clutch basket gear and tighten the bolt to 80 lbf ft.

Install the clutch inner basket and lock washer and then the nut. Tighten that nut to 80 lbf ft and bend the tabs of the lock washer up to lock the nut in place.

Reinstall clutch fibers/steels and install the pressure plate and 6 springs/bolts. Torque pressure plate bolts to 9 lbf ft.

Install new outer case gasket and install outer case. Fill with transmission fluid and coolant and go.



Good write up, man.


Hi what parts I need to Remplace {one way bearingand new case gasket, and can I use the rest of old parts?
lomo
gr8 info there guys thanks,just hope i never have to use it sweatingbullets.gif
Pgreenlaw
Hasteranger, assuming you didn't have the clutch holding tool, how did you tighten the inner clutch nut to 80 LBF FT?
hasteranger
usec a long extension to wedge the cage against the case... very carefully.
Lumi
Nice write up
hasteranger
If you have already had the recall done or if your bike isn't in the applicable range but you are still having starter clutch problems, all you really need to replace is the part#

'One Way Clutch'

# 28125-MEY-671

Just don't forget to order a new gasket too use the PN above.
caveman
QUOTE(hasteranger @ Apr 1 2009, 01:57 PM) *
Is your starter whirring and not catching? If so, the problem is likely your starter clutch. Honda issued a service bulletin regarding this and actually initiated a replacement campaign, but unfortunately it expired last year. The good thing is that the parts aren't too expensive and the job is not too difficult to attempt yourself. I just did mine, and wanted to take some pictures to help others have an idea of what is involved in performing the job. It took me about 4 hours including a few setbacks (I broke a spring retaining bolt off and was not sure how to align the final clutch disc and needed to refer to the .org for assistance).

The majority of text is from .org members Pgreenlaw and 450rr. Please note that the service manual calls for a different procedure with more steps and special Honda tools (though this worked perfectly for me). Please read the disclaimer at the bottom before proceeding.

1). Ensure that you have all the correct parts. The PN for the full kit with new starter gear. starter clutch, roller bearing, and crank nut retainer is Honda PN: 06220-HP1-306. It is around $112-$140. You may be able to get by just replacing the starter clutch itself, but the current bulletin directs dealers to install the full kit to alleviate starter woes. You will need a right side case cover gasket, Honda PN: 11394-HP1-600, which goes for around $17-$23. You will also need a quart/liter of gear oil (or engine oil, whichever you fill your transmission with. I use Honda gear oil), and coolant (if you are careful you can store what you have in your radiator in a clean container and reuse it).



2). Run the bike for 2-3 minutes to warm the trans fluid. Drain coolant and transmission fluid. Drain the coolant at the lower radiator hose, tipping bike towards the pump side to get all the coolant out so it doesn't leak out later. The transmission drain bolt on the 06 and up models is under the drive sprocket behind the shifter. You will need to remove the brake lever which is a single allen bolt at the base of the lever. I found it much easier to work on after removing the header pipe on my yoshi exhaust, which was held on with only two springs.

3). Remove entire right side outer case using the 8mm bolts around the outside. There is no need to remove clutch cover or water pump cover. Keep track of where the bolts go because there are like 4 or 5 different size bolts that must go in different length holes. If you are careful you can leave them in the holes as you remove the cover. As you pull the cover off, two metal tubes (one with an O ring) will probably come off with it. Don't lose these. The long skinny one holds the small gear in right above the starter. The short one with an O ring goes in a recess above the water pump. Go ahead and put them back in their holes so they don't get lost. Thoroughly clean the sealing area, being sure to scrape all the old gasket material off.

caveman
how do i put the balancer gear back in my 2006 trx450er?
toadstool
QUOTE(caveman @ Jul 1 2009, 07:13 PM) *
how do i put the balancer gear back in my 2006 trx450er?



I think you line up the 2 dots?
I had mine come off it was kinda stuck with clutch... BUT!!!!
I put back on and finished job and now NO START!? hmm... it turns over... and the header is hot to touch. so its firing? but no start!
I have fuel, and spark. When I hit E start it has this HORRIBLE noise like my piston is in pieces... it was fine when I parked it? any! ideas... timing off? I have no frikkken idea... I hate new things. hahaha. Im trying to get out on this thing and break my other leg. _specialED.gif

Thanks in advance.
Toad.
ShawnTRD
My buddy just ordered Honda PN: 06220-HP1-306 New starter gear. starter clutch, roller bearing, and crank nut retainer. (dealer told him the gasket comes with it)

And then the dealer called him back and said he needed a Counter Weight...??

Then said it was a new design to help the one-way bearing last longer.

Does this sound right.
toadstool
I installed mine and its not firing my quad.
Im not sure if it needs a Counter Weight, but it def needs something. Its not sounding to healthy...
any help from senior members? or the advertisers? wanna chime in with knowledge? I noticed alot of advertiser and not much help from them... Spread the wealth of knowledge fellas.

Peace
ShawnTRD
QUOTE(toadstool @ Jul 13 2009, 03:07 PM) *
I installed mine and its not firing my quad.
Im not sure if it needs a Counter Weight, but it def needs something. Its not sounding to healthy...
any help from senior members? or the advertisers? wanna chime in with knowledge? I noticed alot of advertiser and not much help from them... Spread the wealth of knowledge fellas.

Peace


When you say it's not firing do you mean it's not getting spark? Or does it sound like something is grinding?
toadstool
Its getting spark. I pulled the wire and hooked up a plug and it was sparking.
I also felt the header pipe. its warm to hot to touch. so I feel like its firing but its timed off? and def makes a noise of some sort now, but it was making noises before with the crappy starter clutch. ionno... Im so lost. I figured easy fix right... nah. its now sitting in pieces and I just walk by it and wish I had a honda tech buddy...lol
justintrx450er
i followed these directions. i put it back together now it wont start. all sounds healthy while cranking but no go. pulled the wire off and i put a plug in to check for spark and has good spark. is there a possiblity the timing is off. or could it had sit for to long and carb gummed up and gettin no fuel. because i hit throttle (even though i know its a no no) and it doesn't stop cranking its just like you didnt touch it. help me out here. thanks in advance
sumosid
THANKS we are going to use this to do my brothers.
wolfpack
thanks man , mine just went out and looks like I'm going to have to tear into it.
darmo21
Nice write up. Mine just went out two weeks ago too. I had to look back at this thread to get it apart turns out that penny trick was all I needed~! All I need now is a pair of snap ring plyers, and finally order the one way clutch. Thanks again this really helped, and it only cost me $0.01 ( penny was cut in half lol )
darmo21
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the clutch bolts (w/ the springs) Cause I def. broke one in my inner hub. banghead.gif veryangry.gif
No I have to get it out, not fun.......

pittsm
QUOTE(darmo21 @ Dec 21 2009, 01:16 PM) *
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the clutch bolts (w/ the springs) Cause I def. broke one in my inner hub. banghead.gif veryangry.gif
No I have to get it out, not fun.......



I 2nd that...I wouldn't even use a torque wrench. Just snug em down by hand. I was using a torque wrench when I snapped one. I was lucky enough to be able to get it out though! thumbsup.gif
TheHonda450R
QUOTE(pittsm @ Dec 21 2009, 02:25 PM) *
QUOTE(darmo21 @ Dec 21 2009, 01:16 PM) *
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the clutch bolts (w/ the springs) Cause I def. broke one in my inner hub. banghead.gif veryangry.gif
No I have to get it out, not fun.......



I 2nd that...I wouldn't even use a torque wrench. Just snug em down by hand. I was using a torque wrench when I snapped one. I was lucky enough to be able to get it out though! thumbsup.gif


You can use a torque wrench. I recommend using one with inch pounds as opposed to foot pounds. This is much better to use with small numbers like the 9 ft/lbs needed.
450RRR
I use a 'palm' impact driver....($13.99 at harbor freight)

screws them out fast...and IN fast... never had an issue...

same tool I use for side cover bolts, etc.... never stripped a bolt yet


info only
darmo21
I was able to back the screw out with a small flat head screwdriver. It worked very well. Purchased new screw because the ones that were in there were junk. Snugged them down by hand, then gave a lil torque by hand. Worked great.

I rode in the snow yesterday the first time since my starter clutch went out.. The snow made for poor visibility and I hit a small hole with my front left tire while my rear end was out to the right drifting a little bit. I was bucked off in fifth gear cruising at about 40-50mph proabably closer to 40mph. my arm is bruised and swollen a lil bit but i'll be fine. Take it easy in the snow~! BTW a neighbor that witnessed it said my quad never flipped over. It was turned around when I hopped up to make sure I didnt break anything
TheHonda450R
QUOTE(darmo21 @ Dec 28 2009, 11:06 PM) *
I was able to back the screw out with a small flat head screwdriver. It worked very well. Purchased new screw because the ones that were in there were junk. Snugged them down by hand, then gave a lil torque by hand. Worked great.

I rode in the snow yesterday the first time since my starter clutch went out.. The snow made for poor visibility and I hit a small hole with my front left tire while my rear end was out to the right drifting a little bit. I was bucked off in fifth gear cruising at about 40-50mph proabably closer to 40mph. my arm is bruised and swollen a lil bit but i'll be fine. Take it easy in the snow~! BTW a neighbor that witnessed it said my quad never flipped over. It was turned around when I hopped up to make sure I didnt break anything

ha i did the same thing man! i was only doing about 30 tho! haha
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