I'll put this here and in the dyno forum since it fits both I think. Traded out some work for dyno time and this is the result. All runs were same day 75deg in the dyno room, ITP Holeshot tires, 91 octane Union 76 pump gas. First run was after a 10 minute warm up on the dyno. The setup is as follows

Stock bottom 05
Venom 480 12.25 pump gas piston
Venom ported head w/ + 1 exh valves
Venom full exhaust w/ spark arrestor out (for a/f probe install)
Hot Cams Stg 3
Stock CDI
Stock carb w/ 175 main to start and ending with a 155 and a dynojet needle on the 3rd clip
Stock intake and air box with a k&n, outerwear and lid removed.

Before this the bike ran good I felt, some driveability quirks like the occasional stumble or hesitation, but nothing major. No smoke, started on the 1st kick and ran real hard all the time. Just spent a little while riding and man what a difference, not big differences in the before and after #'s, but the bike rips hard now. Any rpm, any gear just wants to flip the bike over. I'm on the tank in 1-3rd trying to keep it upright. I was kinda hoping for 50+ simply because that seems to be the standard for 480 combo's, but all in all I'm happy. A/F is still a little robust, but it gets hot out here and I ride this mutha like I stole it from the trailer, all day and back again, so I'd rather it be a little fat and run cool. Guess I'll start aving up for some intake and carb changes and see what that does for the #'s and the rideability. Click to view attachment

so these runs were done w/ knobbies, just to clarify?

yeah, knobbies.

So w/ that being said you could very well be in the 50's.

Let alone SAE vs STD.

I hear that alot on here. Seems most times when #'s are either too low or too high the smoking gun theories pile in. Dyno operators, the dyno itself, tires, swingarms, chain wear, color of your t-shirt during the dyno session, all sorts of things. No excuses from me, it made what it made in the same trim that I ride it every time, so whatever. What do 04-05's make stock, anyone know?

max power 48, with knobbies.... i'd be that's at least a 4 hp drop with knobbies.....

32-34hp

Exactly, it is what it is. As you just stated, there are LOTS of variables and no 2 can really be compared equally.... you did good with knobbies.

Bling we running similar builds except the exhaust. So I figure I should be close to 50 myself.

I just recently bought this bike used from a guy in FL. I haven't even rode it yet.

Anyway, about two years ago MOST folks were crazy about Sparks and HMF exhausts, now they are seldom mentioned. This fall I plan on sending in the carb to have it bored by Venom.

that thing looks pig rich to me...just getting a clean a/f run in the mid 13s should net a few more horse and a earlier torque spread IMO...have you considered a aftermarket intake system? also a little bigger carb bore should be two easy mods that will net ya some good gains!

nice job for nobbies though!

I noticed that as well. It's definitely rich and should've been leaned out some if it was tuned.

it being fat is my doing. I know full well that leaner is meaner, but I ride the wheels off this thing and when it's well over 100deg out here I don't want to have that ragged edge following me along. I'll give up 1 or 2 hp to keep this thing alive. I've melted down plenty of motors (in cars) that were in the 13-1++ A/F's so now I'm always erring on the safer side. Maybe when I finally step up to an FCR and a good intake I'll go for broke on the tune.

UNFORTUNATELY i think you may have it a bit backwards...ill have to recheck the dyno room temps that you tested in but the hotter the air gets the RICHER your jetting becomes...and going TOO rich can melt done a motor just as can a over lean situation...too much gas can leave some unburnt gas in the exchange which can strip oil out of the cylinder as well as mix into the oil in cases...in turn you not only sacrafice power but sacrifice reliability as well...

food for thought...if i dyno in a 70 degree situation but know im summer riding in 100 degrees im gonna dyno that thing around 14-1 if not 14.5-1 when its 70 degrees to know an appropriate estimate of hotweather jetting...or go dyno in a 100 degree room...

dont forget these are not car motors...these motors are Designed from the factory to run lean for cali emissions standards and are designed to have the piss beaten out of them on the track...tune it correctly! :-)

I read you. So I'm sitting on a 155 main now and the a/f is under 13. First runs were with a 175 main and it was under 12 a/f. Maybe go down to 150 and see if I can get to mid 13's?? another question is why the huge dip just after the hit of the throttle, is that the initial pump shot? seems to take a while to recover after that huge drop. any way to alleviate that?

im not quite as familiar with your honda carb but if it has a pump shot then yeah it will be harder to burn off if your already pig rich...also your needle will play into this some...boysen makes some quick jets or something to fix this problem assuming its the same like a yfz carb....150 seems low...to still be showing so rich...i would make sure this guy cleans the screens in his A/f sensor....ive experienced this once where the opposite occured and i showed lean condition on paper but was silly rich in reality...happens commonly with guys that run 2strokes on their dynos

IC your from vegas, me 2. were did you get it dynoed at?

I had it done at the Dynojet facility. I've got some friends that work over there.

ITs true..... knobbies arent meant for the dyno and u prolly lost a good 5 hp atleast by using them...... whoever did it for you should have known better