Stock Vs Hot Cam Stage 2
Entire Bike Apart
Final Product
I will start off with the installation of the cam, it was fairly easy, me being a first timer, had done it successfully, HOWEVER, THIS IS IMPORTANT BE SURE TO PUT A RAG UNDER THE CAM SPROCKET WILE REMOVING ANYTHING!!!! Sorry, but I my self have learned from this mistake, by dropping something down the valve chain side and ended up removing the hole side casing to get the piece out.
Now I will not post a perfect instruction to install the cam, but will put out pointers that I noticed to be difficult, and to fore warn you, I know there is a cam install in the FAQ, also its been since august since I’ve done it, After removing the seat, tank, rear fenders, what ever you need to take off till you feel you have enough space. Clean everything so you don’t get any debris in the engine. You may now remove the valve cover, then once inside you will see everything. From here you must remove the chain tensioner. Once this is removed, you should already HAVE A TOWEL UNDER THE CAM SPROCKET, and u will remove the 2 Allen head screws that hold the sprocket to the cam, easiest way to do this is to have a second person, with a hex key, holding the crack where u search for TDC on opposite side of the motor, this way nothing will rotate on you. Once you remove the sprocket be sure not to slip any teeth and use a twist tie, so something similar and keep pressure so that you wont jump a tooth on the bottom end of the chain, Once this is done, There are four bolts on the cam holder, remove them being care, go slow as not to snap these they are long. While removing the cam housing, be careful not to loose or mix any shims, very easy to do( What’s a shim? A shim is the same style as a watch battery and come in different sizes, and this is how u will adjust your valves later on). Now that you removed the cam holder, it is time to Heat things up, and I mean this literally. There is an auto decompressor mechanism that is on the end of your cam, and u can fight for hours on getting it out, well good luck, the way to do it is, wrap it real good in cloth, put it in a vice, and from here, heat the bolt on the decompresor well. Now you should be able to remove this fairly easy, HOWEVER, be sure not to snap or brake anything in the vice, this could possible happen. Once you removed the decopresor it should pull off fairly well, if I do remember. Now you may take it out of the vice, and the cam will have a snap ring on the other side, you will need a set of snap ring pliers to compress this ring, Once the ring is removed the cam is be ready to come out. Now you have the stocker out, time to install the new one right? Wrong, you will need a 50/50 (1:1) mix of engine oil and moly grase (MOS) or a type of cam lube, i used the 50 50, now mix up the blend and now get the new bearing and lobes, slide the cam in reinstall the decompressor. Now reinstall the Ring NOTE: It is suggested you find all specified torque values while reinstalling, secondly, make sure that ring is seated all the way around. Now you may reinstall the cam in its cam housing to its originated space, re attach the cam sprocket and make sure the engine is in time. How do you do that. Well first find TDC. It will be under the cover on the clutch side where there is a round cover with I believe a 10mm hex, where you help the crank to remove the sprocket and reattach it, from here there will be a dot, line it up with the triangle on the casing, then look at the cam rocker, and there will be 2 scores on the cam wheel. They should line up with two more triangles on the cam housing, if all is lined up, your in time. Now to reinstall the chain tensioner becomes tricky since its self loaded, there will be a bolt in the end you have to remove in there u will see a screw turn it so that the arm comes in form the decompresor. Once you have everything back together you will want to crank the motor manually several times and make sure you don’t have any binding or anything rubbing the wrong way. If all sounds and feel good you can check you clearances. If they are off you will need to replace the shims. To do this you will have to remove the housing again and replace the shims. Luckily mine were on spec right away, Now that you have everything set you can go along and reinstall everything. Again, crank it over manually and if all sounds good put the head cover back on, put the dust cover back on as well as the tank and fire it up and let her rip…
Now Review time,
I installed both the cam as well as the pipe before doing any testing. First impression, wow did the bike come alive, it sounded really good, and the pipe fit nicely. I did notice some harmonics in the stage 2 but honestly wasn’t much more than stock. With this combo I gained power everywhere.
The Dmc Alien Is a loud pipe and I do not have the quiet core, however they claim with the quiet core it will be 96 db. It has a nice finish and has given a good gain in power across the line. This setup works well. I also have the dyno jet kit and k&n air filter, which both work well as well and this package really rips.
Reliability???
Well I’ve been running this setup for over 3 months now, i have not had any mechanical problems yet, and I ride a lot, so to me reliability is still great.
Ac Pro Peg Nerfs
Mounted on Nicely, Look Great. No complaints there,
They also work well, the nets saved my tail a few times too, well worth the money, also the rear heal guards are nice and sturdy compared to the stocker, and the entire set up is surprisingly light considering its size.
