Well everyone should know that i had my Head Done By MIXX and i did get it back 2 day priority SNAIL MAIL....

First off i put the HEAD Gasket on from my COMETIC top end kit put the Dowel pins in the Cylinder and slid the Head down over the Studs..... BE SURE to put your WHITEISH colored Chaig Guide back in here... For the Timeing chain...




Shot from Top....




^^^^ the 4 Nuts that go onto the Studs will need to be TORQUED Down to 40ft/lbs.... i went ini steps and do it just like you would do a wheel on a car.... Cris cross..... (10ft/lb, 20ft/lb, 35ft/lb, 40ft/lb)<<< Im ANAL...

as you tighten the Nuts you can tighten your Head bolts and Cylinder bolts that are 6mm bolts on the side of your engine.... 8mm heads... These just need to be SNUGGED.... no TQ spec for them...

After that you can tighten your Hanger plate bolts and put your hanger BOLT in with the spacers in ....

The Hanger Plate Bolts will TQ to 20ft/lb and the Main Hanger bolt with TQ to 40ft/lb.....

now to put the cam assembly in....

put oil on the Top of each spring then put your shims on them....

Drop the Camshaft holder back onto the intake springs and make sure you have the longer bolts in the FRONT and the shorter ones in the rear and be sure to put oil on the threads as well before installing....




You then tighten the bolts down to 10 ft/lbs in a Criss Cross pattern as well....

Bring your Engine to TDC and put the Cam SPROCKET on .... Line the LINES on the Sprocket up with the TRIANGLE that is turned toward the front of your quad.... not the floor and not the top of the head.... MAKE SURE YOUR EYES ARE IN THE RIGHT PLANE OF SIGHT.... if you look close my is DEAD ON....





Make sure your Threads on the Sprocket Bolts are CLEAN.... put RED locTite on them and intall them.... TQ to 14 ft/lbs

If you did a Cam swap here then the DE COMP. Bolt needs to be TQed to 18 f/lbs...


Here is where you will Check your Clearances and if you are loose or tight then you will adjust accordingly.....

and REPEAT the steps above.... but you can just take the 4 cam shaft holder bolts out and pull it sideways to get to the EXHAUST shims but to get to the INTAKE shims you will have to take the WHOLE THING off again.... Be Prepared to take some time here.... AND if you want (and i advise this)... set your timing and put the sprocket screws in with NO LOCTITE on them so you can easily get them out and back in if you will need to change the intake shims....

Now you will need to put you Timing chain tensioner back in... i used a NEW Gasket on this as well seeing as how my COMETIC top end kit came with one.... you will want to take a SMALL flat head screwdriver and turn the screw to the right to make it loosen up so you can put it in the HOLE... you will need about 4 hands here but just 2 will do it if you do it right.... as you put the tensioner in the hole tighten the bolts up at the same time so it doesnt Snap back out at ya....





Then put the head cover on and button her up .... TQ the bolts to 7 ft/lbs.... MAKE SURE ALL YOUR SEALS ARE IN HERE AS WELL... Ask Luke about not haveing a Spark Plug Seal in....

Now is time for the FLUIDS.... I run NON SYNTHETIC in the engine for break in.... HONDA GN4 Non Moly and then i topped off the water with the ENGINE ICE coolent...





And Changed from the MARYLAND Race air filter to a CLEAN ONE....

At this time it was around 10PM my time in Indiana and my Granparents had just gotten back from dinner and they got me something....

BREAK TIME.....

Now to what i have been working MY ARSS OFF WITH.... The PCs washers to try to keep the bottom bolt from wobbling out....

here they are... they are hard to see but they have like slops on them and you put 2 per screw and take your STOCK LOCK WASHER off.... put the slopes toward eachother and NO LOCTITE... Tighten down...






i am thinking these will do the trick.... if they loosen they will tighten themselves on eachoter.....

Then i put the "Tork Tube" in ....




Then i put a New EXHAUST Gasket in as well... The Cometic Top end gasket kit comes with that too....

Put the exhaust on ....




and put their T Clamp on to help hold it a little tighter around the slip area....

Heres the Header....

This is where i go back over and make sure i put eveything back in its right place... make sure i tightened all HOSES and Clamps and all wires are conected and ... Well Everything that is needed to make the thing run and run right... i CHECK... and Double check...

Also Mount your AXIS rezzy before you try to kick it over....


After i check everything i do a DRY BREAK IN.... i leave the spark plug out and kick it till my leg hurts...... it gives the rings a chance to SEAT REALLY GOOD.... (Recommended is 200 reps but im too lazy and just go till my leg gets tired ... or for about 2-3 mins of non stop kicking....)

















then i put the spark plug in.... if any of you have the STOCK plug wrench then you may have had the rubber piece inside come un attatched as well.... so i take a piece of fuel hose and stick it over the end so i dont just DROP the plug in... (you can hurt the tip if you do that...) (the hose IS part of my tool collection as well.... )



turn it a few turns and then pull the hose off... then tighten as you would with the Plug Wrench and a 14mm socket....


Button it up....






Make sure everything is tight again and double check it.... make sure your jetting is in THE BALL PARK for the start up... put the tank on and turn the gas on.... and for me... i Chop the throttle twice and start kicking.... for me it started on the 5th kick... and ran and ideled like a CHAMP....

Go through your Break in Procedure.... mine is 2 warm ups and cool downs .... then i start to play with the throttle a little to get it reving a little bit on the 3rd one.... then on the 4th and 5th and on i slowly increase my HARSHNESS of riding style... till around the 8th warm up and cool down im at WOT.....


Thanks John (MIXXER) and everyone at VCP (MATT and VINCE) for being so helpful and working with me on QUITE a few things............



RIDE REPORT NEXT.... :lol:

VERY thorough Tyler! Nice write-up! Now I think I can take my head off myself this winter! Hopefully I don't $*&^ anything up

EDIT -- Couldn't you just pull the kill switch when kicking it over, instead of taking out the spark plug?

killer quad
you missed step one, take 6 hours or so and CLEAN the quad!!!

I think he pulls the plug so there's no compression and no immediate stress on the rings, as well as it's easier to kick over...

I was wondering, as well, if it's me or does that quad look a little dirty.

I was thinking the same thing... Step #1



Good write-up though

You guys don't understand what it is like to ride in the mud. Sometimes, to get it looking like your bikes, it would actually take 6 hrs

haha, i understand exactly and my bike will never look like one of those show pieces. Hell, mines 6 months old and it looks older than my 02 Banshee. that's racing for ya.

i race mine harder adn more then tyler does and mine still cleans up like brand new if my tuner cleans it for me

I want a tuner

I feel your pain - my XC bike is about as crusty as they get most of the time. If I had to clean it up to the standards of most of the people who post pics, I'd spend far more time cleaning than riding.

Now my TT & Dune quad, on the other hand - is a different story. Much easier to keep looking shiny and fresh.

Nice write up!

That sucker looks like you don't even ride it! You sure do take care of that one!

Yeah KiD... i pull the plug so there is no Compression and pretty much everything that Sredish said....


When i found out my SH** Was all F***** UP.... (Sorry Had to Vent... :post-696-1105671116: )
It was all muddy from running on my MX Track... my Quad will be SPOT LESS here by the weekend...

AND ..... if Shaff'ty boy will let me hang onto the PRACTICE quad i will show you DIRTY.... BIOTCH.... :post-696-1105671116: (ill klean her up too... )

i dont care post some pictures of that dirty ole biotch ... she is a only ride hard quad and then put away wet and dirty

Shes not THAT dirty anymore... but I will take them BOTH to MIKE's and Get MATT to get some free wash time..... .... both will get Plastic/tires off treatment....

Super write up!!!!!

i agree!

and super nice of tyler to spend the time to do these "how to" guides!

it's almost like he's running for governor or something

Think he's runnin for discounts...

HMMM... Wouldnt the valve adjustment be more simple to do on the bench b4 you installed the head? Im shure you could figure a way to keep the cam from rotating while u checked the lash. Just my .02c Oh and yes that was a nice writup

Nice USP in your Hamburger photo ;-) hehe