TRX450ER 24 volt kit - Honda TRX Forums: Honda TRX 450R Forum

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Old 10-26-2011, 09:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default TRX450ER 24 volt kit

Interested in a 24 volt kit. I have seen a few around. Seem kinda expensive. I would assume most of the cost is in the manufacturing of the mount. Talk to me!! Pro's con's? Front or back mount?
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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They are mounted where your owners manual pouch is, you have to modify your plastic. Message Airmobile101 about his front mount 24v set-up.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have seen the dirtworks kit that mounts in the rear and also the ORP kit that mounts in the front. I have also seen one mounted on the frame rails in front of the motor. It seems like the one on the frame rail would be ideal because of keeping the center of mass low. The other two would keep center of mass high. Just curious. anyone making a bracket for installation in front of the motor?
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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im interested in learning about one also, subscribed..
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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There are plenty of ways to mount the second battery. I originally had mine mounted in the rear where the tool pouch was,but the battery itself started to crack the rear plastic, so I relocated it up front. I just used a piece of angle iron large enough to hold the battery and screwed it into the two holes where the cdi mount goes. Then I zip tied the crap out of it. lol Hasn't moved yet.
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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the only thing you need for this to work is another battery correct? and some wire the same guage as the original? then wire in series and mount the battery wherever you can? what about extra wear on parts? none? me and some buddies might do a lil xc next year and i know how important the start is. and how much hot stalls suck. could prolly get a away with a cheap-o battery too right? don't wanna spend 90 bucks on a new one.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the only thing you need for this to work is another battery correct? and some wire the same guage as the original? then wire in series and mount the battery wherever you can? what about extra wear on parts? none? me and some buddies might do a lil xc next year and i know how important the start is. and how much hot stalls suck. could prolly get a away with a cheap-o battery too right? don't wanna spend 90 bucks on a new one.
I actually used car audio wire. You can use a cheapo battery also, but I had bad luck with cheapo's and OEM batteries. So I now use Tru-gel batteries. Those Tru-Gel are AGM batteries. They are sealed and can't be serviced.

Yes wire the 2nd battery in series,but make sure its wired after the starter relay, that way, 24volts will only be going to the starter itself and thats it.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ohhhhh. ok thanks. even if the second battery failed you would still retain the original 12 volts correct? i'm doin some low low low low budget racing here. just for fun mostley. im thinkin like 50 bucks. haha. and my original battery failed on me too! this one has been fine tho.
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Heres another saver in moneys. the 8 guage wire you need from auto parts is around 15-18 bucks. You can buy a jumper cable set for less and its both ground and power.
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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ohhhhh. ok thanks. even if the second battery failed you would still retain the original 12 volts correct? i'm doin some low low low low budget racing here. just for fun mostley. im thinkin like 50 bucks. haha. and my original battery failed on me too! this one has been fine tho.
Negative!!!!!!!!! If either battery fails, your SOL! hahahahaha! Thats why I run those Tru-Gel batteries. I think they go for 60 bucks a pop.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Negative!!!!!!!!! If either battery fails, your SOL! hahahahaha! Thats why I run those Tru-Gel batteries. I think they go for 60 bucks a pop.
awwww poop. i thought if the battery failed it would still be a complete circut. just not contribute anymore power. guess i gotta buck up if i do it.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Negative!!!!!!!!! If either battery fails, your SOL! hahahahaha! Thats why I run those Tru-Gel batteries. I think they go for 60 bucks a pop.
migth as well get a single good one than 2 bad or regular ones..
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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migth as well get a single good one than 2 bad or regular ones..
cant get 24 cranking volts with one battery . . .
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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cant get 24 cranking volts with one battery . . .
im sure of that but honestly why you need 24v for cranking? unless you have a high comp engine that migth need more power to move and start


if you use HID bulbs or external ligth system then i would say 24v its ok.

please correct me if im wrong. thank man
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:56 AM   #15 (permalink)
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a high compression piston doesn't affect starting the slightest bit if you adjust your decompressor to 65psi or so. same cranking pressure as stock means no extra starting force needed. an extra battery will not help HID bulbs either except for the fact that they would stay lit longer with the engine not running. if the HIDs have more draw than the stator can handle it'll run the batteries dead eventually no matter what.

the reason we want 24V going to the starter only is so it cranks faster and starts faster for certian types of racing. some races have "dead starts" such as XC wich means the engine must be off and can't be started till the green flag. It also helps a lot in hot stalls because if you are pounding the snot out of ur R and it stalls its a bytch to start with the e start.
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